Cast Away
From crystal spring creeks to wild canyon rivers, Central Oregon’s fly-fishing waters run among the most storied in the West
BY Gregg Morris
The flowing river washes out all other sounds as the overcast sky drowns in the morning’s low light. The fly fisherman gathers their rod, reel, flies, and other gear to battle the river’s residents in one of the West’s grand arenas. They slowly wade into the water, searching for insects to emulate with their manufactured flies. They cast their line a few times as their attention turns to possible enemy hiding spots. A downed log provides the fish with a respite from the continuous current. The angler spots the trout and casts their line. The game is afoot.
This scene plays out every day in backcountry rivers and lakes throughout the world, with cities such as Bend welcoming anglers with open arms. Fly fishermen flock to mountain towns in search of beauty, solitude, and, of course, fish. The fly-fishing method uses artificial flies of tied natural and synthetic materials, rather than live bait, to catch fish. Originating on the Astraeus River in second-century Macedonia, fly fishing was popularized in 19th-century northern England and Scotland, and then made its way to New York’s Catskill Mountains. The love of fly fishing quickly spread west to every mountain town with a backcountry lake or river, including Bend.
Though it takes years to fully master, beauty lies in the relatively straightforward basic fly cast. The overhead cast begins with a back cast that sweeps the fly line behind you, then a forward cast that snaps the rod to carry the fly into the water. The difficulty rests in perfecting the cast, choosing the appropriate flies and water location, and, finally, patience.
Where to fly fish in Central Oregon
Bend and its surrounding area offer many options for fly fishermen, in both lakes and rivers. Hosmer Lake, just off Cascade Lakes Highway, is known for its scenery and abundance of brook and rainbow trout. The scenic, fly-fishing-only lake attracts fishing vessels such as canoes and float tubes. Farther down Cascade Lakes Highway, off Forest Road 42, Crane Prairie Reservoir is famous for big brook trout and large rainbow trout, sometimes nicknamed Cranebows. East Lake sits in the Newberry National Volcanic Monument and offers high-country fishing for rainbow trout, brown trout, and kokanee. All three lakes are about an hour from Bend, best fished in summer, and ringed by volcanic peaks and lush wildlife.
But it’s the rivers that draw anglers — and their $27 million annually — to Central Oregon. The Metolius runs west of Sisters and the Fall north of La Pine State Park, while a little more than an hour north of Bend, the Lower Deschutes and the Crooked River offer still more water to wade in and fish to catch.
Metolius River beauty
The spring-fed, crystal-clear Metolius River slices through Camp Sherman and challenges anglers in pursuit of its large bull trout and wild rainbow trout. This fly-fishing-only river does not allow professional guiding, and together those two rules help keep it one of the West’s most pristine. The surrounding forest’s pine trees lead down to the bank’s thick brush, with small trails leading into the water. The fish hold in the channels and deeper pools, waiting for the experienced angler to make their play.
If frustration sets in because the fish keep outsmarting you, reset by walking one of the many trails that wind along the banks and into the forest. While you’re there, visit the Head of the Metolius, where the river’s headwaters surface, and the Wizard Falls Fish Hatchery, for a full understanding of how the river begins and stays healthy.
Lower Deschutes River’s epic canyon fishing
Bend residents have a personal relationship with the Deschutes River as it winds through town. They marvel at its beauty, use it for recreation, and even owe the town’s name to one of its features. Though anglers test the waters close to home, it’s the Lower Deschutes — running some 100 miles from Pelton Dam near Madras to its mouth at the Columbia River — that draws those in the know. Designated a Wild and Scenic River, it’s renowned for its springtime salmonfly hatch and late-summer steelhead season.
Drive a little over an hour north of Bend on Highway 26 and launch your boat from the Warm Springs State Rec Site. The river weaves through towering walls of basalt pillars and green mesas. A wide range of birds patrol the area, from low in the bank’s bushes to high in the cloudless sky. Herds of elk and deer wander down to the river for a drink. And happy anglers find their spot, wading in the middle of the river or floating by in their drift boats.
Crooked River’s abundant fish
The Crooked River, about an hour northeast of Bend along Highway 27, is well known for year-round fishing for redband trout and whitefish. The first 10 or so miles below Bowman Dam are considered the best water on this tributary of the Deschutes. If you want to make a weekend of it, Castle Rock, Palisades, Chimney Rock, and Big Bend are nearby Bureau of Land Management (BLM) campgrounds where you can pitch a tent or pull up a trailer.
The Crooked is a perfect river for absolute beginners, with roughly eight miles of easily accessible water. The wading is tough but not dangerous, and, most importantly, the fish are everywhere. Still, check with a local outfitter for the right flies and rigs, and work on proper technique for the best results.
Fall River’s spring-fed fun
About 30 minutes south of Bend, the Fall River runs a quick eight miles from its source near Pringle Falls before emptying into the Deschutes. This fly-fishing-only river holds a consistent temperature, which allows for year-round fishing. Though spring, summer, and fall bring reliable mayfly and caddis hatches, many anglers prefer the solitude of winter fishing, even in knee-deep snow.
As a quintessential example of spring-creek fishing, the Fall runs through lupine meadows and pine forests, giving anglers a quiet kind of peace. The fishing takes some knowledge and patience to coax a fish onto your line — but even a day without a catch is a good one on the Fall River.
Pack your gear
Gone are the days of tying a wool thread, hook, and worm to a sapling and heading to the local fishing hole. Today, synthetic performance materials raise your odds of catching a fish — along with the cost of your gear.
For Central Oregon, choose a rod between four- and six-weight and about nine feet long. Longer rods cast farther; shorter ones cast more accurately. Match your reel to the rod. Then build your line system: backing, coated fly line, leader, and tippet.
Beyond the basics, a few extra tools make an outing more successful. Sunglasses, a hat, and sunscreen are essential for a day in the sun. Hemostats remove hooks, nippers clip knots, nets land bigger fish, and fly boxes carry your ties. Depending on your adventure, waders and boots handle cold-water fishing, while canoes and other watercraft get you off your feet.
Locally, a handful of fly shops can outfit you for a day or weekend on the water: Confluence Fly Shop in the Old Mill District, Bend Fly Shop on Scott Street, Patient Angler Fly Shop on 3rd Street, and Fly & Field Outfitters on Century Drive all offer a wide selection of gear, classes, guide services, and hatch reports.
Tie your own flies
Though the rod may be the most expensive piece of fly-fishing gear, the greatest weapon in your quiver is the fly itself. Handmade flies, or lures, are widely available, but traditionalists insist on tying their own. The four types are dry flies, which float and imitate adult insects; wet flies, which sink and imitate pupae; nymph flies, which imitate insects in their immature stage; and streamers, which mimic minnows and other swimming prey. Fly-tying pros work with thread, sculpin wool, moose hair, and more, at benches set with a vise, bobbin, scissors, and other tools. But for those short on time or knowledge, stop by a favorite fly shop, ask which flies work best for your adventure, and head to the water.