Destination Hōlualoa

Explore the quaint town above Kailua-Kona.

BY Rita Mae Tabafunda

It may be hard to imagine a verdant side to Kona, but high above the arid, sun-drenched coast and on the slopes of majestic Hualālai, discover Hōlualoa. Here, lush tropical foliage and endless coffee fields create a tranquil haven, and the 1,400-foot elevation provides a soothing escape from the humid seaside. Tucked into this upcountry hillside is historic Hōlualoa Village, a quaint little village that continues reinventing itself as a destination for coffee, art and culture. Though Hōlualoa may appear sleepy, all who visit leave awakened and revitalized.

Hōlualoa’s rich history dates back to the Hawaiian Kingdom. Fertile agricultural terraces allowed for the farming of staple crops, while rock walls and enclosures supported cattle ranching. The name Hōlualoa, meaning “long sled course,” comes from a sledding course that traversed down the mountain. Hōlua (sled) slides were constructed using lava rock covered with fresh soil and slippery reeds and then coated with kukui (candlenut) oil. Mountain sledding was a prestigious sport of Hawaiian chiefs who defied death and rode down the course on wooden sleds, often reaching speeds of 60 miles per hour. But today, Hōlualoa is not a place you want to just slide through when visiting. It’s an enclave where you’ll want to take things slowly, making it an ideal place for travelers seeking a laid-back, immersive Hawaiian vibe.

If embarking on your journey to Hōlualoa near the Kona International Airport, head mauka (toward the mountain) and turn right onto Highway 190. Following the sign for Hōlualoa, make a left onto Māmalahoa Highway, where you’ll begin a 4.5-mile-long scenic byway. As you drive through the narrow winding road, surrender to the untamed beauty of dense natural greenery like monstera ascending palm trees. To your right, glimpses of the golden coast against the vast blue Pacific will make you feel like you’re right on the edge of the island’s westernmost volcano.

Hōlualoa is part of the Kona Coffee Belt, a roughly 30-mile-long strip of land almost parallel to Kona’s famed coast. Coffee trees have dominated the area since missionary Samuel Ruggles introduced Brazilian arabica cuttings to Kona in 1828. This zone’s unique microclimate produces world-renowned coffee. Nutrient-rich volcanic soil, sunny mornings, afternoon clouds and showersand mild nights make this a prime location for growing some of the finest and rarest coffee beans. So, for an authentic experience in Hōlualoa, dive into the exquisite world of Kona coffee by visiting a plantation or two.

At Hula Daddy Coffee Company, uncover the art of growing and roasting Kona coffee by taking a captivating tour of the boutique farm. The hour-long experience includes visiting the orchard where coffee cherries are hand-picked only at peak ripeness. In the roasting room, master roaster Laura is an artist at what she does. After learning the meticulous process of small-batch roasting, take your senses on an adventure by sampling Hula Daddy’s award-winning brews on the patio overlooking the gorgeous estate. Try the Kahiko Orange, Hula Daddy’s Kona Typica coffee co-fermented with Valencia oranges. Vibrant, elegant and intoxicating, the rich dark chocolate and citrus notes will awaken and prepare you for the rest of the day’s discoveries.

As you continue south on Māmalahoa Highway, stop at Mauka Meadows Doutor Coffee Farm, an immaculate Japanese coffee plantation worth seeing for the botanical gardens alone. The delicious coffee is a bonus. A self-guided 0.3-mile-long walking trail takes you through tropical flower gardens and fruit trees. Though the downhill trail only takes about 15 minutes to stroll through, you’ll find yourself taking your time, savoring the peaceful surroundings and taking in stunning panoramic views of the Kona Coast. You’re also welcome to pick any ripe fruit you find along the way and enjoy them next to the glistening infinity pool at the retail shop. And, of course, make sure to taste their rich 100% Kona coffee before taking the shuttle back up to the farm.

If the garden stroll has you thirsting for something cold, head to UCC Hawai‘i’s homey coffee bar for an affogato or iced coffee float, both served with a luscious scoop of Kona Coffee ice cream. Their iced coffee is even chilled with Kona coffee iced cubes (no judgment if you order both!) But if you want to grab a cold drink in the village instead, visit White Nene Coffee Roasters, a specialty coffee roasting company with the cutest coffee trailer you can’t miss. Even locals in Kailua regularly make their way up the mountain for their inventive handcrafted drinks like the silky and subtly fragrant iced Earl Grey lavender latte.

Re-energized and caffeinated, you’re ready to explore Hōlualoa Village, so park your car for an art stroll. The acclaimed Glyph Art Gallery houses original works and giclée prints from over 30 local artists and artisans. Discover works in watercolor, oil, ink, wood, glass, resin, gourds, precious metals, pixels and other mediums that reflect the rich culture of Hawai‘i. Right across from Glyph is Dovetail Gallery and Design, which features outstanding contemporary and abstract art, sculptures and woodwork that complement the fine furniture made right at the gallery’s custom woodworking shop.

Hōlualoa-based artist Shelly Maudsley White also has a beautiful gallery that will have you beaming. Marvel at her fresh and confident approach to the art of watercolor. White’s paintings are often mistaken for other media because of their vibrancy. From tropical florals to adorable pugs and barnyard animals, her collection will have you charmed and humored. You may not have time to fit all of Hōlualoa’s galleries in a day, but if you visit on the first Friday of the month, stay for the village’s First Friday Art Walk when galleries are open late. Enjoy live music, tasty eats and a festive atmosphere—a great way to connect with the eclectic community.

After immersing yourself in the captivating artwork of talented local artists, swing by Kona Treehouse, a botanical boutique with an incredible selection of plants, local seeds and garden goods. Even if you’re not in your plant era, lose yourself in the variety of unique gifts, scented oils, dainty jewelry and a curated collection of island wear for everyone in the family. Kona Treehouse’s sister store, Petals and Provisions, is another treasure trove. Find one-of-a-kind island-inspired home decor and specialty foods like Hawaiian-grown chocolate and honey alongside fresh bouquets and local flower arrangements. And of course, wherever you go in Hōlualoa, don’t forget to secure a bag of Kona coffee beans to return home with. It’s a taste that will keep the memories of your visit alive long after you’ve returned.

There aren’t many restaurants in the village, but Hōlualoa Garden and Kitchen certainly makes up for the lack of choices. Unwind in a covered outdoor setting and under the comforting shade of a giant monkeypod tree. You’ll feel like you’re in a paradise within paradise. Boho touches and alluring chandeliers add to the enchanting and romantic ambiance. You won’t even want to leave. For island flavors, pair the delicate poke (raw, sliced fish) tower with a specialty cocktail like the Pink Palace or Coco-Lilikoi Bonito Mojito, and take things slowly. The farm-to-table preparation and relaxing atmosphere make Hōlualoa Garden and Kitchen an unforgettable place for company and amazing food.

As the sun begins to set, painting the sky in hues of pink and orange, take a moment to soak in the quiet and serenity, something more challenging to find once back down the mountain. With newfound energy, you’ll understand why Hōlualoa is truly a destination worth exploring. Hōlualoa may be small, but its charm ensures that all who visit are invigorated, longing to return.

Hula Daddy Coffee Co. | 74-4944 Mamalahoa Hwy., Hōlualoa | (808) 327-9744 | huladaddy.com | Open Monday through Friday, 9:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

White Nene Coffee Roasters (in Collaboration with Petals & Provisions) | 76-5905 Mamalahoa Hwy, Hōlualoa | whitenenecoffee.com | Open daily, 7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Glyph Art Gallery | 76-5933 Mamalahoa Hwy, Hōlualoa | (808) 769-1550 | glyphartgallery.com | Open Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Dovetail Gallery & Design | 76-5942 Mamalahoa Hwy, Hōlualoa | (808) 322-4046 | dovetailgallery.net | Open Tuesday through Saturday, 12 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Shelly Maudsley White | 76-5902 Mamalahoa Hwy., Hōlualoa | (808) 322–5220 | shellysart.com | Open Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Petals & Provisions | 76-5905 Mamalahoa Hwy, Hōlualoa | (808) 229-8563 | petalsprovisions.com | Open daily 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Holualoa Garden and Kitchen | 765897 Kona Belt Rd, Hōlualoa | (808) 501-1009 | holualoagardenandkitchen.com | Open Wednesday through Sunday, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Thursday through Saturday, 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. for Happy Hour and 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. for Dinner

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