Hawai‘i Island’s northwest region abounds in rivaling landscapes, from majestic untamed valleys to misty rolling hills and enduring kiawe (mesquite) fields. This is North Kohala—the birthplace of famed warrior-king Kamehameha I and home to a vibrant community of farmers, creatives and friendly locals who champion simple lives. Abundant natural beauty offers exhilarating experiences, while eclectic towns with roots in the sugarcane plantation era offer ample things to discover and taste. Fortunately, here in the country, time passes pleasantly slowly, allowing you to ground yourself in an enthralling region.

Embark on a captivating journey through the North Kohala district with a well-planned road trip itinerary. Begin your adventure early, driving up the spine of the Kohala volcano on the scenic Kohala Mountain Road (HI-250) from the small paniolo town of Waimea. This volcano, the oldest of five on the island, last erupted some 60,000 years ago. As you ascend, the breathtaking view of the Kohala Coast on your left and the lush, peridot-hued hills and pastures on your right will captivate your senses. The stark contrast between the two sides is a sight to behold.

After a scenic 22-mile drive, follow the signs to Kapa‘au for a delightful stop at the Pomaika‘i Cafe. As you step into this cozy, family-run establishment, the comforting aroma of freshly baked pastries will envelop you like a warm embrace. While you wait for your coffee and the irresistible cinnamon roll that caught your eye as soon as you entered, take a stroll in the backyard's serene garden. The lush tropical foliage and the melodic chirping of native birds will instantly transport you to the present moment, making you feel a part of this place.

With breakfast checked off the list, head to glorious Pololū Valley to hike to the black sand beach on the valley floor. The 1.2-mile roundtrip trail is steep but not overly strenuous. Just be careful if recent rains have made the trail slippery. Throughout the 25-minute downhill path, take in humbling views of the verdant valley and dramatic pali (cliffs) plunging into the ocean. Revered Pololū has ancient burial sites deeper in the valley, so stay on the trail and don’t venture too far inland. Save some of your energy for later.

After an invigorating morning hike, return to Kapa‘au to see the original statue of King Kamehameha I. Born in North Kohala and foretold to become a powerful chief, the infant was hidden from warring clans in secluded Waipi‘o Valley on the Hāmākua Coast. Upon coming out of hiding, Kamehameha I trained as a warrior and unified the Hawaiian Islands in 1810 after years of conflict. His statue, sculpted in Florence, Italy, in 1880, sank off the Falkland Islands during transport. Miraculously, the statue was recovered in 1912 and stands not far from the birthplace of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i’s first monarch.

Aside from royals, North Kohala is home to renowned artists and craftsmen, so you’ll need to visit a few galleries. At Ackerman Galleries, discover fine art by mixed-media artist Gary Ackerman, who developed a reputation for his free liquid style with deep layered texture. His work focuses on impressionism and is bold, diverse and uniquely imaginative. Across the street is a second gallery and gift shop showcasing the talent of other local artists. Here, you’ll find a collection of glass, local exotic woods, jewelry, pottery, paintings and quality keepsakes.

If food is what you wish to feast your eyes on next, thankfully, right next door is Kings View Cafe. Indulge in a gourmet hand-tossed pizza like the pillowy rosemary gorgonzola. Creamy, salty and addictive, the sauce is so exquisite you’ll forget the other toppings. Another great spot in Kapa‘au is Gill’s Lanai, which serves bright flavors with locally sourced ingredients. Awaken your palate with thick Baja-style fish tacos prepared with the daily catch and topped with a tangy mango salsa. Chill in the upstairs breezy lanai, where you’ll feel like you’re in a giant treehouse.

And if you want to be amongst the trees, make your way to Hāwī, a second town just two miles west, to kick off an unparalleled canopy tour with Kohala Zipline. Tours leave out of Hāwī and feature elevated suspension bridges, soaring tree platforms and thrilling ziplines. As you traverse through a towering forest on a private nature reserve, you’ll be gripped by the magnificence of North Kohala. If this activity is too adventurous, fear not. There are still plenty of things in Hāwī that will soak up your time.

Add Kohala Grown Market to your list. North Kohala is deeply rooted in agricultural history. In ancient Hawai‘i, the region was an extensive wet taro area and was also intensively cultivated in dryland taro, sweet potatoes, bananas and other crops. Though farming has changed, Kohala’s soils continue to sustain, and at Kohala Grown Market, you can experience Kohala’s bounty. While supporting local farmers and stocking up on some organic produce, discover local specialty products like ninja hot sauces, ube syrup and even passion fruit body butter. The market also has an impressive selection of Hawaiian chocolates and locally made soaps, essential oils and general sundries.

Another great place to buy local is Aloha Man, a snug little boutique with a curated selection of Aloha shirts, beachwear and other goods from local designers. Continue your search for more treasures at Olena Gallery, where you’ll find works by over thirty Big Island artists. The gallery features authentic Hawaiian art and beautiful wood carvings. As you continue exploring Hāwī, you’ll be surprised at the number of galleries this small town hosts. Why, even restaurants are art galleries!

Located in a historic, fully restored plantation building, Bamboo Restaurant & Art Gallery transports you back to old Hawai‘i. The Pacific Rim menu features bright Hawaiian-Asian fusion flavors such as the Vietnamese “Tossed” Salad with perfectly charred shrimp and a crispy egg roll on a bed of soba noodles or the Aloha Vietnam sandwich—their take on the classic Vietnamese sandwich with your choice of protein on Hawaiian sweet bread, layered with sweet and sour Asian coleslaw, carrots and cilantro, with Thai sweet chili aioli. Complement your meal with their famous lilikoi margarita made from their own in-house recipe, and don’t forget to check out the two-story art gallery before walking to Our Founding Farmers for farm-to-scoop ice cream.

At Our Founding Farms, you may be presented with a dilemma: how to choose from twenty innovative small-batch flavors that sound familiar to the ears but taste strikingly new upon lick. Owner and Willy Wonka of ice cream, Mark Smith, will let you sample his creations before you decide which flavor or flavors to indulge in. You must try Hawaiian chocolate, which leaves a sexy spice a few seconds after the cream melts on your tongue. For a combo, the matcha tea with local honey marries nicely with the strawberry ice cream made from Rincon Farm strawberries grown right over the mountain. A visit to North Kohala just for Our Founding Farmers alone is well worth it.

For a caffeinated pick-me-up, Hawi Coffee Company has you. Sip on a handcrafted drink like a silky chai latte from local estate beans. A favorite pour is The Force cortado, with white chocolate and coconut notes. Hang with the locals for rich coffee and good conversation at this gem in the old Kohala Coffee Mill building. This is also a great place to listen to live music and do some roadside people-watching.

For serious art enthusiasts, schedule a visit with local art consultant Tiffany DeEtte Shafto. An interior designer and founder of Tiffany’s Art Agency, she will help you discover original works from Hawai‘i’s master artists that fit the size and subject matter you’re searching for. Shop her website, then schedule a trip to her private art oasis. You can even bring or send photos of your walls so mock-ups can be provided. Tiffany works with clients near and far to help turn their dream houses into their homes with Hawaiian art.

To complete your North Kohala road trip, drive southwest on Akoni Pule Highway into Kawaihae’s Seafood Bar & Grill. The Polynesian-inspired decor is such a fun vibe for happy hour. Pair a signature drink with the mouthwatering striped marlin poke (cubed raw fish). If staying for dinner, order the braised Asian barbecue short ribs. The beef is succulent with just the right sweetness and heavenly with the pineapple macadamia nut slaw. Wrap up your North Kohala adventure at Kawaihae Harbor to watch the sunset—a perfect end to a day of discovery.

Though North Kohala is the island’s smallest district, it surprisingly offers so many experiences. But take your time, and don’t fret about seeing or tasting everything. There’s a charm to this region that slips you away into what seems like a different dimension of paradise. Time passes more slowly, and you are ever-present. So, savor each beautiful scene, each tranquil mile, each speaking canvas, each nourishing meal, and seek stories along the way. Just as North Kohala was the first peninsula to emerge from the sea, perhaps the first memories you’ll long to return to after your trip to the Big Island arise from this very region.

Pomaika'i Cafe; 54-3885 Akoni Pule Hwy A, Kapa'au; (808) 889-5546; @pomaikaicafe

Ackerman Galleries; 54-3878 Akoni Pule Hwy, Kapa'au; (808) 889-5971; ackermanfineart.com

Ackerman Galleries Gift Shop; 3897 Akoni Pule Hwy, Kapa'au; (808) 889-5138; ackermanhawaii.com

Kings View Cafe; 54-3897 Akoni Pule Hwy, Kapa'au; (808) 889-0099; kingsviewcafe.com

Gill's Lanai; 54-3866 Akoni Pule Hwy, Kapa'au; (808) 315-1542; gillslanai.com

Kohala Zipline; 55-515 Hāwī Rd, Hāwī; (808) 331-3620; kohalazipline.com

Aloha Man; 55-3411 Akoni Pule Hwy, Hāwī; (808) 895-0964; alohaman.com

Bamboo Restaurant & Gallery; 55-3415 Akoni Pule Hwy, Hāwī; (808) 889-5555; bamboorestauranthawaii.com

Our Founding Farmers; 55-3409 Akoni Pule Hwy, Hāwī; (808) 785-7092; ourfoundingfarmers.com

Hawi Coffee Company @Kohala Coffee Mill; 55-3412 Akoni Pule Hwy, Hāwī; (808) 889-5577; waimeacoffeecompany.com

Tiffany's Art Agency; (808) 747-5882; tiffanysartagency.com

Seafood Bar & Grill; 61-3642 Kawaihae Rd, Kawaihae; (808) 880-9393; seafoodbarandgrill.com