Destination South Kona
Explore the beauty and charm of the quaint towns and experiences just south of Kailua-Kona.
BY Rina Mae Tabafunda
With its sun-drenched, rugged coastline, underwater paradise, and fertile volcanic soils, South Kona has a landscape that continues to resonate with the spirit of old Hawai‘i. In this region, two cultures historically converged, significantly influencing the course of history. It serves as both a sanctuary of the past and an escape in the present. If you want to explore beyond the bustling tourist centers in the northern regions, head south, where nostalgia, culture, untouched pristine beauty, and the aloha spirit welcome you.
The quintessential start to exploring South Kona is with a cup of Kona coffee—pure liquid aloha. Coffee trees have dominated the area since missionary Reverend Samuel Ruggles introduced Brazilian arabica cuttings to Kona in 1828. Nutrient-rich volcanic soil, sunny mornings, afternoon showers, and mild nights create a unique microclimate that produces some of the world’s finest and rarest beans, so a visit to a local coffee house is a must.
Perched high on the mountain slope, The Coffee Shack serves 100% estate-grown Kona coffee alongside panoramic views of the coastline that stretch for 26 breathtaking miles. Enjoy a rich, velvety coffee on the outdoor lānai as you take in the view. Spend some time in this charming café, which seamlessly combines delicious flavors with stunning scenic beauty. For a creative twist, try HiCO Hawaiian Coffee, a modern cafe known for its signature Ube Latte, made with purple sweet potato—a drink as photogenic as it is satisfying. Whatever way you take your coffee, these local spots will energize you for the day ahead.
Next, discover Kealakekua Bay. Kealakekua, meaning “pathway of the gods,” provided a sheltered harbor and abundant resources for early settlers. Native Hawaiians cleared the surrounding forests and developed an extensive upland agricultural system, cultivating ‘uala (sweet potato), kalo (taro), and other crops. As the complex social and political system of Hawai‘i developed, Kealakekua emerged as a major center for the ali‘i (chiefs) and kahuna (priests), supported by the maka‘āinana (commoners) who farmed the land and fished the waters off Kealakekua. The bay was also an important religious site and believed to be the sacred homeland and harbor of Lono, the Hawaiian god of agriculture and peace.
On January 17, 1779, the British ships HMS Discovery and HMS Resolution, led by Captain James Cook, sailed into Kealakekua. Thought to be Lono, Cook was initially welcomed. But after departing and returning due to storm damage, tensions rose during his third voyage. Following a series of disputes, including a stolen cutter boat, Cook attempted to kidnap ali‘i nui (supreme ruler) Kalaniʻōpuʻu-a-Kaiamamao. A violent clash ensued, and Cook was killed on February 14, 1779, marking one of the most dramatic events of early European-Hawaiian contact.
Today, a white obelisk stands near the site of the explorer’s death on the northern shore of Kealakekua Bay. To reach it, hike the Captain Cook Monument Trail (Ka‘awaloa Trail)—just under four miles round-trip with 1,300 feet down to sea level. Start early when the sun is still low and take plenty of water. As you descend through lush grasslands that transition into lava flats near the shore, you may even spot Hawaiian spinner dolphins that frequent the bay. The 315-acre marine sanctuary offers some of the best snorkeling on the island. Bring your gear and immerse yourself in vibrant coral reefs teeming with tropical fish. The effort to reach both the monument and the bay is truly worth the reward!
Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau is another cultural and historical treasure. In ancient Hawai‘i, life was governed by the kapu system, a code of sacred laws that regulated every aspect of daily life. Breaking something forbidden often meant death, but there was one path to redemption: reach a puʻuhonua, or “place of refuge.” If a lawbreaker made it there safely, a priest could grant forgiveness, allowing them to return home. While several puʻuhonua existed across the islands, Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau is the best preserved. Located on South Kona’s coast, this national park offers a vivid look into ancient Hawaiian life. Explore royal grounds and ponds, and behold heiau (temples) and dramatic-looking ki‘i (statues). As you stand before the Great Wall dividing the royal grounds and puʻuhonua, picture a native scrambling ashore or taking the final step into the boundaries of refuge. Exhausted but relieved, he knows his life is spared.
Further south of Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau, you can take the less-traveled road to Hoʻokena Beach Park. Once a bustling canoe-fishing village, Hoʻokena offers a peaceful, authentic Hawaiian beach vibe. Located at the northern end of Kauhakō Bay, Hoʻokena Beach is flanked by sea cliffs. The clear, turquoise water gently touches the steel-colored sand, composed of tiny coral and lava fragments. With usually calm waters, Hoʻokena is perfect for swimming, snorkeling, or kayaking. Or just relax on the shore. Unwind and recharge.
After soaking in the coast’s history and beauty, head back up the mountain to the town of Captain Cook for a different kind of experience. Nestled in the lush hills, Hala Tree Coffee Farm offers a rich, sensory journey into the world of Kona coffee. Join a free estate tour through the orchards, where crimson cherries glisten during the harvest months of July through January. Discover how 100% Kona coffee is meticulously cultivated and processed, then indulge in a tasting session to experience distinct, nuanced flavors, all while surrounded by captivating scenery that truly elevates the moment.
For another memorable tasting experience, head straight to Big Island Bees in Captain Cook. This family-run farm produces organic raw Hawaiian honey and offers tours where you can safely observe a live hive. Learn how honey is made from flower to jar, and sample tantalizing flavors like ʻŌhiʻa Lehua Honey, sourced from native ʻōhiʻa lehua blossoms in the forests of Mauna Loa. The delicate, white, crystallized honey is perfect for indulging straight off the spoon. Also, try the Macadamia Nut Blossom, a velvety dark honey with hints of chocolate. One taste and you’ll need to make extra space in your pantry for jars.
Tucked makai (toward the sea) of Mamalahoa Highway, St. Benedict’s Painted Church stands as an architectural and historical landmark. From 1899 to 1904, using house paint as his medium, Belgian priest John Velge transformed the gothic-style building’s interior into striking visual narratives. Emerald palm fronds sprout from the tops of boldly striped, red-and-white columns, stars are scattered across the vaulted ceiling, and the walls come alive with intricate depictions of biblical scenes—imagery that helped bridge the divide between the Hawaiian and English languages.
Just down the road from the church, make a quick stop at the Banana Bread Spot, a roadside gem lovingly run by local baker Jeanette Vater. Her banana bread is warm, incredibly moist and crowned with macadamia nuts and a dusting of sugar. Baked daily using bananas grown right on her farm, the loaves are sold on the honor system and kept in a cooler at the top of her driveway. Word to the wise: Grab more loaves than you think you need. They’re pretty addictive.
To cool off, swing by Gypsea Gelato in nearby Kealakekua. With over 500 rotating flavors, this shop is your ultimate destination for desserts in South Kona. Favorites include the Mauka Trail, a decadent coffee-chocolate blend, and the refreshing Toasted Coconut Haystack, made with coconut cream and chocolate-covered coconut flakes. With nautical flair and endless variety, the shop is the perfect place to beat the Kona heat.
When adventure stirs your appetite, transport back to the plantation days of old Hawai‘i at the beloved Manago Hotel. The hotel started as a small restaurant opened in 1917 by Kinzo and Osame Manago to supplement their limited income as coffee workers. Today, the Manago Hotel Restaurant is the state’s oldest operating restaurant. The menu is simple and comforting, showcasing local staples. If you’re unsure what to order but want to try what locals usually get, the golden pork chops, pan-fried and smothered in brown gravy and onions, is a dish as timeless as the restaurant itself. If you’re after local cuisine served in a place rich with history and cultural significance, this is the spot.
South Kona has other laid-back dining options that don’t compromise on freshness or quality. Craving pizza? Black Rock Pizza serves up artisanal pies with crisp, light crusts and generous toppings. Try Kanak Attack with smoky kalua pork, which may put you in a food coma. For tacos, head to Shaka Tacoz for the Ono Tacos, featuring grilled wahoo on a crispy corn tortilla, complemented by a sweet, tangy mango chili sauce that adds a hint of heat. And if fresh poke is on your mind, get hooked at Reel Aloha Poke and Fish Co. for beautifully crafted bowls made with locally caught fish. As a bonus, each of these spots comes with stunning ocean views—ideal for catching the sunset after a day of exploring.
You can easily spend a few days discovering South Kona’s sights and flavors while immersing yourself in rich history and enduring culture. So, venture off the beaten path, connect deeply, and you’ll be rewarded with something rare: authenticity.
The Coffee Shack; 83-5799 Mamalahoa Hwy., Captain Cook (between mile markers 108 and 109); (808) 328-9555; coffeeshack.com; Open Thursday through Tuesday, 7:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.
Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park and Captain James Cook Monument; dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii/kealakekua-bay-state-historical-park; Open daily 7:00 a.m. to 8 p.m.; No entrance fee.
Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park; State Hwy. 160, Hōnaunau; (808) 328-2326; nps.gov/puho; Open daily, 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.; Visit the website for more information on entrance passes; Credit and debit only—no cash.
Ho‘okena Beach Park; 86-3687 Ho‘okena Beach Road, Ho‘okena; (808) 961-8311; Open daily from 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.
HiCO Hawaiian Coffee; 81-6368A Hawai‘i Belt Road, Kealakekua; (808) 865-1508 (no phone orders); hicohawaiiancoffee.com; Open Monday through Friday, 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday, 7:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
Hala Tree Coffee; 82-5966 Mamalahoa Hwy., Captain Cook; (808) 238-5005; halatreecoffee.com; Open Monday through Friday, 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Big Island Bees; 82-1140 Meli Rd., Suite #102, Captain Cook; (808) 328-1315; bigislandbees.com; Open Monday through Thursday, 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Reservations are required for beekeeping tours. Follow directions on their website (not GPS).
St. Benedict’s Painted Church; 84-5140 Painted Church Rd., Captain Cook; (808) 328-2227; thepaintedchurchhawaii.org; Open daily 7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Banana Bread Spot; 83-5437 Painted Church Rd., Captain Cook; (808) 315-2479; yelp.com/biz/banana-bread-spot-captain-cook; Open daily 8:00 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Gypsea Gelato; 79-7491 Hawai‘i Belt Rd., Kealakekua; (808) 322-3233; gypseagelato.com; Open Sunday through Thursday, 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. and Friday and Saturday, 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
Manago Hotel and Restaurant; 82-6155 Hawai‘i Belt Rd., Captain Cook; (808) 323-2642; managohotel.com; Restaurant open Wednesday through Saturday, 11:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.—Lunch: 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m., Dinner: 5:00 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.
Black Rock Pizza; 82-6127 Hawai‘i Belt Rd., Suite #3, Captain Cook; (808) 731-6162; blackrock.pizza; Open daily, 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.; Delivery and takeout available.
Shaka Tacoz; 82-6167 Mamalahoa Hwy., Captain Cook; (808) 969-7183; shakatacoz.com; Open daily, 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.; Online orders accepted.
Reel Aloha Poke and Fish Co.; 81-6641 Hawai‘i Belt Rd., Kealakekua; (808) 430-4279; @reel.aloha; Open daily 10:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.