High above the golden beaches and glistening lava fields, in the saddle of the majestic Mauna Kea and Kohala mountains, lies Waimea, a peridot-hued wonderland of lush pastures and rolling hills. Here, racing clouds and misty rains create dreamy fog and striking rainbows. At about 2,600 feet, the air is cool, restoring, praised. Prevailing northeast winds add to the refreshing chill while the sun seeks to ease the cold. Just a few miles from the palm-lined coast and sumptuous resorts, beloved Waimea bestows upcountry charm and a unique Hawaiian heritage.


Waimea, meaning “reddish water,” was named after the color of its streams. This very land was also known as “Hulilauali‘i” or “calabash of many chiefs,” for in ancient Hawaii, many ali‘i (chiefs) lived here, and Waimea was the site of many fierce battles. During Kamehameha’s rise to power, the Waimea plains were the training ground for his skilled army and thus integral to the warrior king’s unification of the Hawaiian Islands. Some of Waimea’s deep soils were reserved for royal agricultural sustenance, and watersheds supported several thousand native Hawaiians, many of whom farmed kalo (taro), bananas and sweet potatoes in walled irrigated fields.

In 1793, the few cattle gifted to King Kamehameha by Captain George Vancouver forever changed the scene. The cattle, which the king declared kapu (forbidden), flourished into thousands over the next 20 years. Plundering villages and farms—even endangering lives—the cattle needed to be controlled, so the king enlisted Sailor John Parker Palmer to shoot herds of cattle that roamed the countryside. The king also allowed Parker to supply meat, tallow and hides to islanders and visiting ships. Parker quickly grew into a respected man of influence and would eventually build the largest ranch in Hawai‘i and the once largest ranch in the United States—Parker Ranch—which boasted nearly 500,000 acres at its height.

When the kapu was lifted and horses were introduced to the island, the foundations for the ranching industry were laid. In 1833, famed Mexican vaqueros arrived to teach Hawaiians ranching and horsemanship. Parker Ranch, headquartered in Waimea, became the heart of cattle country. Not only did Hawaiians learn the ways of riding, roping, saddle making and leather tanning, but they also embraced their mentors’ colorful traditions of music, cuisine, family values and hard work. And so emerged the paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy, translation of español) culture. Even before the mainstream recognition of the American cowboy and the Wild West, generations of paniolo had been wrangling longhorn cattle on the island. 


Today, Waimea’s paniolo heritage is well preserved, and Parker Ranch continues as a leader in the community. The land is still home to ranchers and farmers who, alongside many entrepreneurs and artisans, form a thriving community, allowing visitors much to explore and leaving those who just pass through with regret. May Waimea’s breathtaking vistas, abundance of good eats, lovely boutiques, and rustic allure lasso you in.

Start your visit at Parker Square and saddle up at Waimea Coffee Company. Sip on a handcrafted drink from local estate beans. A favorite pour is The Force cortado with comforting notes of white chocolate and coconut. Pair that with the decadent flourless chocolate cake, and you’ll be ready for some shopping. Just a few steps away at Sassafras, find exquisite hand-fabricated solid sterling silver and gold jewelry. Each “Sassy” collection piece is wearable art inspired by Hawaii’s flora, fauna, and stories. Next, step into Bentley’s Home Collection, an enchanting little gift shop with whimsical keepsakes and island home decor from local makers.

For more shopping fun, head across the street and sing your way to Uila Records, a boutique record store selling new and used vinyl records. Your jaw will drop as you flip through the impressive selection of old-time favorites and contemporary albums. The Hawaiian music section, which includes slack-key guitar, a style born out of paniolo culture, will surely delight. Whether you’re browsing for nostalgia or part of the vinyl revival, you’ll leave with good vibes only. 


With beaches just minutes away from Waimea, check out the curated selection of swimwear next door at Surf Camp Shop. Besides elevated beach essentials, you’ll find quality outdoor gear, insightful books, and loads of sustainable goods. By now, if you’re starting to feel a little chilly from the weather, make your way to the adjoined cafe to grab a warm drink and treat yourself to some of the prettiest toasts. You can’t go wrong with either the ricotta toast with fresh fruit, the smoked salmon toast, or the loaded avocado toast, but save room for the rest of the amazing spreads Waimea offers.


Waimea boasts some of the finest regional cuisine and farm-to-table restaurants. At Merriman’s Big Island, enjoy a locally sourced award-winning menu showcasing the island’s freshest fish, seafood, meat, and produce. The cozy restaurant’s vaulted ceilings, dimmed chandeliers, and wooden decor define rustic elegance. Indulge in the succulent beef tenderloin sourced from a local ranch or savor vibrant fish tacos complemented with the signature mai tai topped with honey-passionfruit foam. Another phenomenal place to taste authentic island flavors is FORC Hawaii, where Chef Allen Hess serves up seasonal, innovative dishes grounded in tradition. For a comforting Hawaiian meal, ask for the house laulau (varied protein wrapped and steamed in taro leaves) with garlic fried rice. Waimea will surely deliver an exceptional upcountry culinary experience.


There’s also a bounty of casual options to help you refuel. Driving through town and the tantalizing scent of kiawe (mesquite) hits you? Follow the smoke to GJ’s Huli Chicken, a roadside, take-out-only operation serving the juiciest and huli huli (rotisserie-style) chicken and ribs. Locals and visitors patiently wait in line, even in the misty cold, as the iron trailers continuously turn rows of sizzling meats. Secure a generous “plate lunch” from the weekend-only operation that’s been in Waimea for nearly 25 years. Like grilled meats, pizza tastes better in the country, so grab a slice at James Angelo’s Underground Pizza, where East Coast-style thin-crust pizza reigns. Most popular is the spinach and garlic white specialty that marries nicely with local Hamakua mermaid mushrooms. With a clear view into the creation space, watch in awe as the chef masterfully crafts your pie from scratch before popping it into the hot oven.

For a sweet indulgence, head to Patisserie Nanako, a Japanese-French bakery that whips up the most irresistible desserts. From the Milk France, a mini baguette piped with a sweet milk buttercream, to the raspberry ladybug, a rich chocolate mousse encased in a raspberry glaze, everything on display is perfectly sweet, made with passion, and too pretty to eat. Eat it anyway. The breads and pastries are made daily in small batches to ensure the highest quality.


You may need a break from all the good eats, so here are some recommendations. Wander through Ulu Laʻau (Waimea Nature Park). The serene 10-acre natural preserve welcomes you to reflect and learn about native plants and trees. Discover the state’s largest collection of varied color ‘ōhi‘a lehua, the first tree that springs up from a lava flow, symbolizing resilience and growth. Spot its blossoms as you stroll along the Waikoloa Stream flowing through the park. If you prefer relaxing indoors, consider reserving a chair at Enjoy Fashion Salon, where hairstylists create pure art by bringing together the timeless tradition of Italian style and cutting-edge techniques. Waimea is home to many talented artists, even in the beauty realm.

An urban timber salvage company also sits right in the heart of Waimea. Kamuela Hardwoods takes pride in reclaiming and salvaging wood that would otherwise have been burned, chipped, or thrown in our landfills. In their showroom, discover beautiful hand-carved artwork, ethically sourced painted bull skulls, laser-engraved charcuterie boards, koa (sandalwood) jewelry boxes, and other goods that will fit in a suitcase. Just perusing the selection of exotic slabs is therapeutic, and you’ll be inspired to take a piece of nature’s artwork home.

If you’re here on a farmers market day, prepare for more treasure hunting. The Waimea Town Market at Parker School is alive on Saturdays, where you will find artisan bread, Waimea-grown strawberries and local beef jerky. The variety of ethnic foods prepared on the spot satisfies any craving. Also, look for Hawaiian life paintings by renowned artist Kathy Long. On Wednesdays, the Midweek Farmers Market at Pukalani Stables hosts a wide selection of food vendors and food trucks. Come here to get your Egyptian falafel or grilled cheese fix. Gather farm-fresh produce, tropical flowers, island-grown chocolate, and pearl-strung jewelry. The old stallion station also houses the Paniolo Heritage Center, a little museum that brings the history of the paniolo to life.

Against all the things to taste and gather, Waimea’s natural beauty is what visitors remember most. No wonder this coveted land with rich heritage and royal ties is considered more precious than gold. Experience a different Hawai‘i you may not know existed. Waimea’s evergreen landscape, ever-nourishing soils, and ever-giving community await you to create everlasting memories.