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Dynamic Duos

Legendary Pairings on the Culinary Scene

BY Brooke Rehmann

What makes a dining experience transform from a simple night out to a fabulous evening of memory making that you want on repeat? How does a restaurant team combine the unseen magic of the back of the house, where chefs and kitchen staff all contribute to create delicious meals, with the prompt and attentive service delivered by the front of the house? The best of the best makes these efforts feel seamless, where a diner need never think about these processes that make their dining experience a fun, enjoyable meal.

While there are numerous restaurants on the Big Island that are outstanding, a few stand out above the rest for exceeding the normal expectations. We all want good food, good service and nice ambience, but when a place makes you feel like you are a guest in their home and treats you like family, it makes for more than a memorable meal—it’s a great time!

And like Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers, Batman and Robin, and Abbott and Costello, it’s the perfect partnership that makes magic happen. Though each of their stories is different, there are core values that tie these dynamic duos together—teamwork, respect, trust and passion for hospitality.

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Nick & Chuck

Chef Nick Mastrascusa and Chuck Wilson of Kuki‘o

Working with your best friend has its advantages. Executive Chef Nick Mastrascusa and Manager of Restaurant Operations Chuck Wilson have been working alongside each other for almost 12 years, each able to read the cues of the other, and each able to bring a sense of joy and excitement to their environment.

Chef Nick Mastrascusa grew up in Uruguay and was heavily influenced by his grandparents’ Spanish and Sicilian roots. Though no one in his family had a professional food and beverage background, his father enjoyed fishing and hunting and sold cured meats to local butchers. The idea of hunting and fishing, though, was not just for the sport, but for the celebration it would bring to the dining table, as family would gather around and share delicious meals together. When it came time to decide on a career, Chef Nick found the culinary world effortless. “If I did it the rest of my life, I’d be happy,” he says.

Similarly, Chuck Wilson started working in the restaurant business in his home state of Missouri at an early age, cutting bread at a local family-owned restaurant, where he saw what a dining experience could do for people, and instantly fell in love “I wanted to be a part of that magic,” he says. Over the years he became a sommelier, developing the philosophy that the wine glass is the extension of the plate. Following a few stints at major Las Vegas dining establishments, he eventually joined the Four Seasons Resort Hualālai and, together with Chef Nick, launched Beach Tree in 2009. It was there that this “dream team” came to life and has grown over the ensuing years.

“Both of us are about creating memorable experiences,” Chuck says about his work with Chef Nick, who agrees. It’s all about the setting, the lighting, the service, the music—all the elements that make each experience unique and just right. “Whether you want a fine dining experience, or just a hot dog and a beer, if you can match that moment, you’ll create memorable experiences,” Chef Nick shares.

As soon as Chuck heard who the opening chef at Beach Tree would be, he knew they would be a winning combination. “My older brother’s name is Nick. The restaurant was opening on my birthday. It was perfect.” This auspicious beginning set in motion a friendship that continues today. “It’s unusual to stay together so long,” Chef Nick adds. Though they spent some time apart, Chuck says he always knew they would get back together.

“Chuck has something really rare,” Chef Nick shares. “He has the gift of people. I don’t know how he does it, the specific steps, but very quickly he can make you feel really good. It’s pretty admirable to see in action—I’ve never met anyone who could do this better than him.”

Meanwhile, Chuck has glowing words of his own. “What Chef does is so much more than food. He has a natural leadership. Even though he’s younger than me, I’ve learned more from him than I have from anyone else. It’s a calming nature.”

For the two of them, work isn’t always just work. The two plan bespoke trips with their residents to renowned food and wine destinations, including the Champagne area of France. There they share their own knowledge, and explore the cuisine and vineyards in a hands-on way. “We share those experiences to elevate them,” Chef Nick says. Though COVID-19 disrupted their travel for 2020, they already have a trip tentatively planned for Spain in the fall.

Though the two are quick to speak well of the other, they also credit their incredible team, who help their visions come to life. Investing in the right people has proven to be successful, and even though there are the occasional growing pains, they find that their team surprises them in pleasant ways on a regular basis. Whether it’s creating memorable dishes or moments at the restaurant, or bringing in a farmers market to their community, the two are always looking for ways to have fun, and share the memorable moments that make dining so enjoyable and meaningful—and, both agree they couldn’t do that without those who work with them.

Chef Nick shares how even though the two of them are friends and get along incredibly well, they still work at a business and have to execute at a very high level. It’s rare, he says, that the front of house and back of house would be so in sync, and that they would be so friendly, but it’s all about how by working together, they become an invincible team. “Once you celebrate those gifts (that each possesses), you put the two together and it becomes unstoppable. Let us show you what we can do.”

Kūk‘o is a private residential community on the North Kona coast. For more information, visit kukio.com.

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Matt & Yuka

Chef Matt Raso and GM Yuka Raso of CanoeHouse

Executive Chef Matt Raso and General Manager Yuka Raso not only make for a dynamic pair due to their working relationship, but also because of their personal one as well. Having originally worked together at Nobu Dallas, the two eventually fell in love and navigated their careers to the shores of O‘ahu, before landing here on the Big Island at one of our island’s most iconic dining establishments. Originally the home of renowned Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine chef Alan Wong, CanoeHouse has long been on the culinary map for locals and visitors alike, and the married couple knew they had big shoes to fill when they accepted their positions. However, both immensely talented in their own respective sphere, they have been able to exceed this challenge easily, creating memorable meals and dining experiences during their tenure.

What is it like to work so closely with your spouse every day, I wondered, especially in such a fast-paced, emotional environment as a restaurant kitchen and fine dining front of house? For Yuka, she says she’s incredibly happy to have him by her side. “I can’t imagine having this career without him.” Matt has a similar thought as well in that they share the trials and tribulations as one team, and they can trust each other implicitly. “I don’t have to question when she wants to start a project—I know that she’ll see it through to the end.” Chef Matt also knows he can trust her with the guests, and that her bubbly personality wins guests over immediately. “She makes people feel comfortable right away,” he says.

“I love sharing with guests that it’s his food,” Yuka says. “It makes me so happy when guests tell me that it’s the best food on the island.” Hearing from guests who hail from big food cities like San Francisco or Los Angeles that his level of cuisine stands up to their favorites there fills Yuka with a lot of pride and happiness.

A trait that connects the best partnerships seems to be the level of trust, and the ability to have a shared vision for where they want to take the restaurant. To Chef Matt, this is a huge advantage. The two see the restaurant as an extension of their home where they want each guest to feel like they belong, feel special, and that this is more than just a restaurant. Their goal is to make the vibe feel more relaxed and less stuffy, and that’s completely by design. They forgo the fancy tablecloths, the bread service, all the touches and hallmarks of a typical fine dining establishment. “The fact that we can come to the table and be us, I think it allows people to relate, and allows guests to feel like regulars right away.” The two know that if either one of them makes a mistake, the other will have their back, helping to ensure the continuation of their vision, regardless of the hiccups that might occasionally occur.

Even though the couple has moved around several times, it is the aloha spirit that keeps them in Hawai‘i, as well as the fresh produce, and the ability to put their own stamp on the restaurant. CanoeHouse features the MY Menu (MY standing for Matt and Yuka), which are dishes that they started together, signature dishes, and things that Chef Matt knows Yuka likes. The concept is based on a Japanese omakase (chef’s choice) menu, where they are cooking the dishes specifically for each guest.

Their philosophy also extends to the idea that because they are working hard to build a level of trust with each guest, they hope you will consider their recommendations on the dinner menu. Some diners might be initially reluctant, but Yuka has such faith in Matt’s ability to delight each diner’s palate, that she shares she will happily take care of things if someone doesn’t like one of her recommendations. Chef Matt enjoys this, as he likes to surprise his guests with things they weren’t expecting, and to see their delight in those surprises.

Throughout his time spent on the Big Island, Chef Matt continues to be influenced by the local culture, including the paniolo (cowboy) culture of the ranchlands. “In my head, the way I describe the food I want to do is ‘Japanese cowboy,’ and that’s the direction I hope to take the restaurant.” The vision is not quite a steakhouse, but more family style, more relaxed, with people talking to each other, experiencing things together.

“You shouldn’t have to feel service. If you’re at someone’s house and the food appears, and then all of a sudden, it’s three hours later, then that’s the kind of experience we’d like to create,” shares Chef Matt. “We have the ambiance and setting,” says Yuka. “All we need to do is create a great food and service experience. We want the guests to leave happy.” “With smiles on their faces,” Chef Matt adds, finishing the idea of the restaurant the two of them set out to create. Together.

CanoeHouse is located at Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection. They are open for dinner daily from 5pm to 9pm. For reservations, call (808) 885-6622 or visit aubergeresorts.com/maunalani/dine/canoe-house.

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Jim & Teddy

Chef James Babian & GM Teddy Lyau of Pueoʻs Osteria

Located up the hill overlooking the Kohala Coast is the small town of Waikoloa Village, home to one of the island’s best restaurants, Pueo’s Osteria. Run by Chef/Owner Jim Babian and General Manager Teddy Lyau, this dynamic duo keeps guests coming back for more.

Growing up watching cooking shows such as The Galloping Gourmet and The French Chef with Julia Child and helping out at his father’s supper club, Chef Jim discovered early on his passion for cooking. Teddy started in the restaurant scene bussing tables, washing dishes, and eventually worked his way up to general manager by the time he turned 25. Though their lives took different paths, they both ended up at the Four Seasons Resort Hualālai in 2012, where Teddy loved Chef Jim’s style. Later, when Pueo’s was opening, Teddy heard about the plans and became intrigued. Chef Jim wanted Teddy to join him, but wanted Teddy to feel comfortable to come when he was ready, and not steal him from his job at the time. They have been together at Pueo’s for over five years and going strong.

“The thing with us is chemistry,” Chef Jim says. “When we were at Beach Tree, it was so much fun. When he came up here to dine, we reconnected and chatted—he could see the potential in what we were doing up here.” And after Teddy joined, that’s when the ideas started exploding. “He just took things to another level.”

One of Teddy’s favorite ideas he and chef came up with is their regional food and wine dinners where Chef Jim and his team would transport guests to a culinary destination without the need for a passport. Focusing on one area of Italy, for instance, the Lazio region where Rome is located, Chef Jim would create dishes inspired by the region, with Teddy selecting wines that paired perfectly with the food. Served al fresco and at communal tables, these special dinners are what sweet dreams are made of. “There were no restrictions, no borders, no rules. Each dinner had to be better than the last time,” shares Chef Jim. “With Teddy, we could stretch the limits of what could be accomplished and pull them off at a high level.”

“Our professional relationship is 80% Jim, and 20% me—80% his brains, and 20% my back,” Teddy says with a laugh. “I’ve grown the most working with him. He reminds me how to train my thoughts to what’s important vs. what’s urgent. It’s easy to lose sight of the important things when looking at the day-to-day operations, but he reminds me to get those important things done.”

For Chef Jim, working with Teddy allows him to push himself and his team even further. “We don’t ever settle; we get better year over year.” Together, they have shaped a unique, diverse and skilled team, the combination of which they both believe will continue to further build on their hard-earned reputation as one of the best restaurants on the island. “In our core leadership meetings, we get to levels that we wouldn’t get to on our own. Teddy keeps me so inspired, helps me stay sharp. Together we keep looking to innovate so we can continue to grow.”

For Teddy, it’s not just the chemistry of working together well, but also Chef Jim’s thirst for more. “Passion drives passion. Our mission statement of great food with knowledgeable and personal service stems from the kitchen all the way out to the floor. I knew from day one that we were a dynamic duo.” Chef Jim agrees, adding, “I told Teddy I couldn’t do this without him. We were put together for a reason, to make great experiences for our employees, but also for our guests as well. I feel lucky and blessed every day.”

Pueo’s Osteria is located in Waikoloa Village at 68-1845 Waikoloa Road. Open for dinner Tuesdays thru Saturdays from 4pm to 11pm for dine in, and until 8pm for takeout. Reservations are strongly recommended. Please call (808) 339-7566 or visit pueososteria.com.

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Rio & Arnie

Chef Rio Miceli & GM Arnie McLain of Royʻs Waikoloa Bar & Grill

When it comes to iconic Hawai‘i chefs, Chef Roy Yamaguchi of Roy’s restaurant chain fame, certainly ranks near the top. His eponymous restaurant located at the Kings’ Shops in Waikoloa has a new head chef, Big Island native Rio Miceli, taking the helm of the kitchen, alongside Roy’s Waikoloa Bar & Grill veteran Arnie McLain guiding the front of house dining experience. Though this dynamic duo has only started recently working together, their combined experiences make for a truly interesting team. And, really, anyone paired with Arnie is going to be dynamic as he is a walking legend among the faithful regulars of this much-loved establishment.

Arnie has been at Roy’s Waikoloa Bar & Grill for 25 years, seeing the brand go through many changes. He speaks highly of Chef Roy, noting he’s always ahead of dining trends. “Roy is a visionary. He’s always trying to do something better than the day before, to never be status quo. It’s the driving factor for me and why I’ve stayed for so many years.”

But for Arnie, bringing in Chef Rio is something he’s ecstatic about for his fresh style and creative talent to take the classics and create new favorites. “He’s going to bring that ‘Wow!’ back,” Arnie says. Chef Rio is excited to make the menu even stronger, taking the reins of a brand that has been delighting guests since the 1980s throughout Hawai‘i and beyond. It’s not easy to put your stamp on beloved dishes, but Chef Rio sees this as a fun challenge. Together, they are looking to build the staff after a devastating year for the restaurant business by nurturing the staff they currently have, as well as grow their team together.

“We’re going to introduce a few things at a time,” Arnie says. “The regulars are always looking for something new, in addition to all the classics. I know Chef Rio is really good at what he does. I’m really excited for this next chapter.”

The two have a vast history of food and dining experience, both working their way up to their leadership positions from the ground up, jumping in to take charge as situations needed it. For Arnie, he prefers being hands-on with the staff, both front and back of house. He hosts, he busses, he washes dishes—his motto being that if the staff sees him doing it, they’ll want to do it better. It’s all about creating memorable guest experiences, so that they come back again and again. Meanwhile, Chef Rio keeps sight of important details—clean cooking stations, nurture passionate and driven cooks, and give them autonomy over their own stations. He’s currently working on assessing the current staffs’ strengths and weaknesses, and to further build on their strengths while working on the areas that need more support.

Both Chef Rio and Arnie have known each other through reputation over the years, even before they worked together. “I’ve always loved Arnie,” Chef Rio says. “From what I’ve seen, he definitely holds to his philosophy—he’s very hands-on and gets into the trenches. I’m hoping some of his skills will rub off on me.”

While they continue to build a strong team together, Chef Rio is also hoping both of their philosophies and styles will keep them moving forward. “Other than that, I’m going to make food that tastes good. It sounds basic, but I’m ready to put in the work to make it happen.” And for Arnie, he wants to keep the guests coming back for more. “I throw a party for 150 people every night. If I do my job right, my goal is that everyone leaves happy.” And trust us, you most definitely will.

Roy’s Waikoloa Bar & Grill is located within the Kings’ Shops in the Waikoloa Resort. It is open for dinner daily from 4:30PM – 8:30PM. Reservations are strongly recommended. Please call 808-886-4321 or visit royyamaguchi.com/roys-waikoloa.

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