Waimea, an upcountry community here on the Big Island, has been the home of some of our islands’ most legendary culinary traditions. And with the recent addition of FORC (standing for Forest Ocean Rancher Cook), we have the opportunity to witness a shift in the conversation about what it means to cook Hawaiian food in upscale, but still approachable ways.

Chef Allen Hess is well known around the state and beyond for his deep culinary and cultural knowledge (as well as his bacon). Previously, when I had interviewed world-renown chefs for the Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival, many of them cited Chef Allen for helping them to better understand the local food scene, from traditional approaches to new and innovative ways to use the local ingredients. It’s no surprise then, that Chef Allen would spearhead an opportunity to showcase something similar at his newest restaurant.

Located right in the heart of Waimea, FORC is well situated to receive the best of the best from our local producers. The same community is known for its paniolo, or Hawaiian cowboy, traditions and where ranching is still a big part of local life. You’ll see statues of cowboy boots or paniolo roping cattle in the middle of town. Waimea is also the home of Parker Ranch, one of the largest cattle ranches in the United States. Additionally, the town is close to Kawaihae Harbor and other coastal fishing areas, as well as being situated in one of our island’s most abundant crop growing regions. It makes sense, then, to base a restaurant off of these three main provisions.

But basing your restaurant off of these ideas and executing them are two separate things. Fortunately, Chef Allen has gone out of his way to build strong relationships with the local farmers, ranchers and fishermen in order to make this dream a reality. “FORC is chef driven,” he says, “which allows us to be hyper localized. It’s about what the farmers bring us that affects the menu.” If a farmer doesn't have a certain product, then Chef Allen and his team will have to work on a menu change quickly, and occasionally, suddenly. But being committed to his suppliers and buying their products, even if it’s not massive quantities, allows him to build the trust and commitment needed to sustain this concept moving forward.

And it’s not just his commitment to his purveyors, but also to local food that sets the restaurant apart. And not just what the brochures of Hawai‘i present as local food, but the actual real food that locals eat at home with their friends and family, sometimes in a garage or driveway, sometimes in a backyard, sometimes at the beach. “Every dish we do has a pretty simple process,” he shares. “First, is it the best quality we can get on the island? Second, we ask ourselves, what Hawaiian dish can we make with this product?” For instance, for locals who like to go night diving, they might bring their fish back home, cover it with mayo, green onions, and other aromatics, and bake it until it’s perfectly cooked. At FORC, they do something similar, using a locally caught fish, crusted with sizzling sweet onions, some ginger and garlic, and then finished with a crispy rice crunch. “We sell so much of it,” chef says. “It’s not something that’s easy to find on a menu elsewhere.”

Another twist on a local favorite is The “Beef Tomato.” Chef Allen and his team use a whole beef shank, about 42 ounces in size that serves 2 people. First, they marinate it overnight in stewed tomatoes, garlic and Worcestershire sauce, then char it over a high flame. Afterwards, they braise it low and slow for 24 hours in a broth made from the bones of the whole cows they bring in. The dish is served family style—just like you would see at a local lū‘au or potluck—alongside sides of your choice, ranging from “Local Style” with garlic fried rice, pickled veggies, hō‘i‘o, or fiddlehead fern, poi and other goodies, or “American Style” with some roasted sweet potato, cauliflower with parmesan from Big Island Goat, a Caesar salad, and a fresh loaf. Other exquisitely made local dishes include a Portuguese Bean Soup using their own smoked ham hocks and house-made pasta, as well as laulau with a confit of wild pork, served with fresh poi from the taro fields of Waipi‘o Valley. This is truly local food to da max.

Despite its proximity to the upscale Kohala Coast resorts, Waimea is also a humble town, filled with ranchers, teachers, farmers, and everyone in between. On any given night you might see the dining room filled with tables of a Waipi‘o taro farmer, sitting beside a local musician, who might be near a table of real estate agents or tourists from a local resort. Chef Allen hopes everyone who comes feels welcome with its relaxed vibe and open layout. “Come, stay, eat and drink!” With the town’s penchant for culinary greatness, FORC’s welcoming atmosphere, elevated approach to truly local food, and commitment to the local producers, FORC seems poised to join the ranks of some of the really great Hawai‘i restaurants. We’ll see you there!

FORC is located at 65-1214 Lindsey Road in the heart of Waimea Town. Check with restaurant for current hours of service . Call 808-731-4656 or visit forchawaii.com for more information.