Nestled between the towering Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa mountains and surrounded by vast, rugged lava fields, lies a natural marvel—a living sanctuary—a beautifully preserved Hawaiian forest. This is Kaulana Manu, a 3,000-year-old kīpuka (or pocket of forest) surrounded by recent lava flows. Located in the Upper Waiākea Forest Reserve, Kaulana Manu was spared by the fiery paths of Mauna Loa’s 1855, 1881, and 1925 eruptions. In ancient times, this forest supplied the Native Hawaiians with abundant natural resources, which they braved the misty cold to gather. Today, this lush sanctuary is a haven for native birds, endemic plants, and enduring trees — a verdant oasis amid volcanic destruction.

Kaulana Manu invites you to explore the captivating beauty of this pristine Hawaiian forest with a peaceful walk on the Kaulana Manu Nature Trail. The 0.6-mile out-and-back trail is easy and takes roughly 13 minutes to complete. However, you’re likely to want to spend more time soaking in this secluded spot. Opened in late 2020, the family-friendly loop trail is relatively new and features viewing platforms and interpretive signs, such as over 35 plant identification signs. The trailhead is along Daniel K. Inouye Highway, also known as Saddle Road, at the 21-mile marker—about 6.9 miles past the Mauna Kea service road turnoff when heading toward Hilo.

The trail is best explored in the morning when there’s less chance of rain, but even if it’s misty, the landscape is still enchanting, making it a perfect stop if you’re traveling between the east and west sides of the island. From the parking lot, follow the white-painted footprints on the pavement that lead to a decontamination station. To prevent the spread of diseases that endanger our forests’ fragile ecosystems, brush off your shoes before descending the trail. The nature reserve is also a fenced 15-acre site to protect native plants from feral pigs and sheep, so after passing through the gate, ensure it locks behind you. Soon after, the trail diverges into a brief loop. After selecting your path, move at a relaxed pace. Stay quiet and listen for the flutter of wings and the rustling leaves, and allow the birds to serenade you.

The name Kaulana Manu fittingly means “tranquil resting place for birds.” This wet kīpuka transitions upland into drier forests, making it an excellent location to see and hear a variety of native birds. They can be seen year-round, but winter is the time for optimal viewing and abundance. If you’re patient enough, you can spot native birds like the ‘i‘iwi or ‘apapane in the forest canopy. Both endemic birds have crimson-red bodies that contrast with their black wings and tails. The ‘i‘iwi has a long, curved, salmon-colored bill for sipping nectar, while the ‘apapane, perhaps the most abundant native bird on Hawai‘i island, has a slightly curved black bill. The ‘apapane is also famous for its variable repertoire of songs. Both birds are drawn to the ʻōhiʻa, Hawai‘i’s most abundant endemic tree, and are pillars of native forests. The ʻōhiʻa tree is also the first tree that springs up after a recent lava flow. Other birds you might see in the kīpuka include the ‘amakihi, ‘elepaio, ‘ōma‘o, and ‘io (Hawaiian hawk), along with the endangered ‘akepa, ‘akiapōlā‘au, and ‘alawī (Hawai‘i honeycreeper). Again, just hush and listen. Ground yourself. Let the birds do all the talking as you walk through the forest, admiring the variety of endemic plants along the way.

A short side trail will take you to a viewing deck. As you rise just high enough to look over the low trees and Mauna Kea in the distance, you’re met with a breathtaking perspective that deepens your appreciation for the forest. This very landscape once played a vital role in the daily lives of ancient Hawaiians. Kia manu (Hawaiian bird catchers) favored this forest for the many brightly colored birds whose feathers were made into highly prized adornments, such as capes, cloaks, and helmets, for the ali‘i (chiefs and royalty). Using expertly crafted poles, nets, and other tools, they lured and captured the swift birds with great precision. The forest also provided valuable hardwoods: koa for canoes and ʻōhiʻa for structures of houses, tools, carrying poles, and ki‘i (statues). Soft fibers from hāpuʻu tree ferns were used to stuff pillows, while the exceptionally strong fibers of ‘olona were made into ropes. Hawaiians utilized every part of the forest, from leaves and bark to flowers, for medicine and lei-making.   

Forests like this one are more than just beautiful landscapes — they serve as sources of survival and storytelling. After a brief yet invigorating hike, armed with a deeper understanding of the ‘āina (land), you'll carry your own story. This precious forest is prepared to share its secrets with those who explore it.