The waters surrounding Hawai‘i have always been home to some hardy folk. Whether you are born here or come from afar, island life demands skill and strength. Even more remarkable are our ancient ancestors, human and animal alike, who made their way to Hawai‘i before life was firmly rooted here. The first Marquesan navigators possessed a degree of fortitude and skill perhaps beyond what most might seem possible: To leave the safety of the shoreline and head into a featureless expanse of endless ocean spread across the largest and most remote waters in all the world. Relying solely on ingenuity and instinctive ability to find a tiny spit of land while adrift in the allure of the Pacific Ocean.

It’s no surprise that when they landed, the first creatures to greet them were just as hardy and just as resourceful in carving out life on these remote islands. Coral reefs put down roots long before the first upright footprints cleaved the sandy beaches these corals would help create.

The first human settlers would have immediately recognized the bountiful reefs, teeming with life. As their canoes glided over the colorful reefs in the final moments before precious landfall, what a relief it must have been to be greeted with a familiar source of food, protection, medicine, and mana (spiritual power) already waiting for them. And yes, mana, just as it is sung about in the Kumulipo (Hawaiian creation) chant, is truly what corals embody as they are nothing short of miraculous. They exist in an ocean desert where life should not be possible. Yes, that’s right—warm clear tropical waters can’t support much life; they are nutrient poor wastelands. Only the hardiest and most resourceful creatures could create a home in such a place.

But in the spirit of aloha, corals are able to create all the life we see in the waters surrounding the islands by sharing what little they have with their neighbors. Just as trees and humans exchange oxygen and carbon dioxide, corals and their permanent microscopic houseguests exchange nutrients and resources that are the basis for almost all life we love and embrace in the waters around the Islands. The coral polyp (a thin surface layer of interconnected little stationary jellyfish) allows colorful photosynthetic algae (tiny plants that turn sunlight into food called zooxanthellae) to make its home in the coral’s tissues. With the ability to exchange up to 90% of nutrients between the two housemates, coral reefs can grow for thousands of years continuously laying down old calcium carbonate exoskeleton, thus building the large rocky structures of the reefs as they grow.

It is these structures that form the home for all the life we are so privileged to enjoy in the narrow band of shallow waters surrounding these volcanic sloping islands. But the best way to truly understand the mana that corals possess and the teeming cities of reef life they support, is to don a pair of fins, slap on a mask, and go experience the best reefs Hawai‘i has to offer.

My all-time favorite reef is Pentagon at ‘Anaeho‘omalu (A-bay) in front of the Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa. The best way to get there is via a snorkel boat, found right in the bay, as the reef is far out near the mouth of the bay. Too far to swim, particularly in the choppier winter months, but a kayak can also work if you are a skilled water person. The stunning pentagon structure with its five large cavernous openings (imagine a Fred-Flintstone-looking cave house siting in 15-feet of water) lies hidden just beneath the waves. On any given day turtles, moray eels, and a wide variety of tangs, surgeonfish, and colorful reef creatures are endlessly co-habituating this desert oasis.

Another stunning swim is off the monument at the northern end of Kealakekua Bay that marks the demise of Captain Cook at the hands and clubs of the Hawaiians he offended. Too bad he didn’t have a mask and snorkel, as it’s quite a peaceful place underwater. There are tour boats that leave from Kona or join a guided kayaking group and cross over the bay from the south side. You just might see sleeping dolphins swimming up and down through the bay as you paddle (dolphins are in a half sleep/half awake dream space and still have to come up for air while they “sleep”). The reef is a spectacular explosion of color, form, and function and it’s a great place for beginners and experienced snorkelers alike.

If you prefer more of a drive up and snorkel then the End-of-the-Road snorkel spot near the end of Puakō Beach Drive is another great reef in calm conditions. Park in the dirt parking lot as you first arrive. At the south end of the parking area there is a fishbowl rock structure perfect for entering the water safely (assuming good conditions). Head straight out perpendicular from shore until you see a valley start to form in the reef. Follow the valley out to the edge of the reef and hang a right (north). The amazing volcanic formations adorned with colorful corals, vibrant tangs, turtles, and countless creatures will keep you coming back over and again. Just be mindful of the wavebreak at the south and north ends of this small bay as you proceed out.

One of the best reefs mainly accessible by boat only is 6th Hole located next to Mauna Lani Resort’s 14th hole. There are numerous operators who will take you out, but a smaller operation is your best bet. Besides being an amazing snorkel spot, 6th Hole is one of my favorites, as it has a manta ray cleaning station. More often than not, you can jump in, head to a special spot on the reef and watch these gentle giants get pampered by cleaner fish and reef creatures that rise from the reef and “clean” unwanted bacteria and skin off the hovering mantas. It’s also the best place I have found for seeing dolphins underwater, if the sea gods decide to smile down upon you. You should check it out—when 6th Hole is hopping, it’s an underwater paradise.

My last recommendation, although the most crowded, is Kahalu‘u Bay. This is the place to go for the beginner who wants a taste of what the underwater wilds possess, but in a safe and protected cove with lifeguards on duty. However, even advanced water people, such as myself, never tire of this bay, as there is something uniquely special despite its popularity. Even more so, this bay possesses a superpower that all visitors and locals alike can receive—knowledge. In 2006 UH Sea Grant and The Kohala Center created ReefTeach, a reef protection program involving well-trained and dedicated ReefTeach volunteers of all ages who educate visitors about what corals are, the different types of fish and invertebrates in the bay, and reef ecology. The numerous resources, education materials, and teachers can be found every day helping to educate and protect reef and reef-lovers alike.

So do yourself a favor, learn about the reefs from the locals so you can be nice to the corals as they are already under enough stress. In 2015, the Hawaiian Islands experienced their first statewide mass bleaching event (when the algae in the coral’s tissue skips town because local conditions became too inhospitable, leaving just the white tissues and reef left over). Sixty percent of corals in West Hawai‘i bleached, with some reefs experiencing up to ninety percent mortality. Bleaching events like these are becoming common around the world. And, it is no joke; scientists have warned that corals could cease to exist on this planet by 2050 if things continue as they have. Things like urban runoff, poor land use and fisheries management, rising global temperatures and ocean carbon dioxide levels are all major factors stressing corals beyond their known limits.

Fortunately, here in Hawai‘i, corals are on the rebound from the 2015 bleaching event, particularly in remote areas with limited shoreline access and exposure to human impacts. Like I said, corals are the hardiest among us. But they make their living in a tiny sliver of habitable depth, temperature, and environmental conditions. Let’s not make it any harder for them, or for ourselves if we hope to enjoy their remarkable bounty of life, leisure, and culture. So snorkel responsibly—and hopefully, we can continue to appreciate the sustaining gifts they’ve been providing since the very first inhabitants all the way to the most recent arrivals. I hope to see you out there for some time to come, as I hope to see the corals.

Reef Etiquette

As wonderful as time spent snorkeling can be for us, we want to make sure it’s a two-way interaction. Follow these tips for a safe and fun experience:

•Hawai‘i can have rip tides, currents, potentially dangerous marine creatures, and changing ocean conditions, including surprise sets of large waves. Know before you go what the conditions are like, and if you are unfamiliar with an area, stay in sight of lifeguard protected areas.

•Coral reefs are the bedrock foundations to almost all life in Hawaiian waters. They look like colorful rocks, but in reality these creatures are a colony of delicate living tissue surrounding the hard limestone “rock” that they secrete for living space. Don’t step on or kick the reefs as this can easily kill them.

•Wear coral safe sunscreen. One drop of the oxybenzone in non-safe sunscreens can kill corals. Check the label, it will say “reef safe” or some version of that. Or just check if it has oxybenzone and octinoxate in the ingredients list as both contribute to coral bleaching. Try and apply at least 20 minutes before you enter the water. (Other potential harmful chemicals in sunscreen include: butylparaben and 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor).

•Don’t swim alone. Always use the buddy system, and let someone on land know where you are going and what you are doing.

•Don’t feed the fish or any marine life. The less you touch them the better it is for both parties.

•Waste only time, take only pictures, and leave only bubbles. Easy, right? It’s tempting to take a souvenir, but even empty shells have a place in the ecosystem. (Plus you want to avoid grabbing cone snail shells, as they can be very dangerous—they look like an ice cream cone without the ice cream in it).

•It’s illegal to touch, harm, or hinder honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles), monk seals, and dolphins. You can get in serious trouble with the authorities, both legal and spiritual! Don’t get in between them and the surface or the open water.

•Know the rules if you decide to do any fishing or spearfishing. There are many marine protected areas along the coast and specific rules apply to each. Check on the Division of Aquatic Resources (DAR) website for locations.

•Have fun. Lots and lots of fun!