Coffee Culture
The taste expert shaping Kaua‘i Coffee’s legacy
BY Krystal Kakimoto
Mike Shimatsu’s journey began in the tranquil town of Hāna, where he was born, before moving to Kaua‘i at a young age, where his passion for coffee would take root and shape his future. From his early days as an electrician’s helper and seasonal coffee worker, Mike steadily climbed the ranks to now oversee the roasting operations at the largest coffee estate in the United States. His unwavering pursuit of excellence is evident in every cup he crafts, with a sharp focus on precision and quality. As a certified licensed Q Arabica Grader, his expertise and careful attention to detail have earned him a respected position in the coffee industry, ensuring that every brew he handles reflects his deep admiration for the art of coffee-making.
Coffee was always present in Mike Shimatsu’s home growing up, though never the focus. He recalls family members brewing from canisters of Folgers, Hills Bros., or Yuban — familiar brands that shaped a daily routine. In 1990, he joined Kaua‘i Coffee through a family friend who brought him on as an electrician’s helper, someone Shimatsu credits with influencing his current path. “He was the person who laid the foundation for me and provided me with the opportunity to be where I am today,” he reflects.
Shimatsu quickly advanced through the ranks, moving from a seasonal worker to factory operator, and eventually landing in the factory as a quality control analyst. There, he was responsible for sample roasting, cupping, and green bean grading. During this time, he also began collaborating with the Department of Agriculture inspector, helping shape the Hawai‘i coffee grading standards.
Now, as the company’s master of roasting operations and institutional equipment, he oversees a team of nine dedicated to upholding the quality and standards at Kaua‘i Coffee. “Besides the day-to-day production, we also do our quality assurance testing on the roast plant, which includes cupping every finished product that comes off our packaging line,” he explains. In addition to these duties, his team manages sample roasting and green bean grading and supervises the Food Safety program, a critical component in ensuring smooth and safe operations.
To maintain his expertise, he relies on the cupping method to rigorously evaluate and assess the quality and characteristics of coffee beans. “We cup daily, as our customers would drink coffee, utilizing our internal cupping form and the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA) cupping form and protocols in identifying lots that potential customers may be interested in purchasing. We also purchase coffees that are available on the market and add them to our cupping sessions to see what is available,” he shares.
One key element of excellence that Shimatsu brings to Kaua‘i Coffee is his certification as a licensed Q Arabica Grader. This prestigious title, earned through rigorous and extensive training, equips him with the expertise to assess and score the quality of roasted coffee. However, the journey to certification was not without its challenges. “I took the course in California and was there for about a week,” he recalls. “The biggest challenge was that we only work with our own Kaua‘i coffee, and others in the industry were familiar with the coffees from other countries, which are used throughout the course. I prepared by purchasing coffee online from different origins, then cupping and evaluating them in our lab.” The course consisted of 20 exams that assessed a range of job-relevant skills, and as he worked through the exams, he was able to complete the required tasks. He was also able to transition from the Hawai‘i state grading standards to the specialty.
With over three decades of experience at Kaua‘i Coffee, Shimatsu has played a vital role in maintaining the standards of the brand while also keeping the company vibrant and up to date on meeting the preferences of customers’ tastes. When asked what makes Kaua‘i Coffee so special and unique, he reflects that many factors contribute to the company’s success. “You will hear everyone talk about the soil, water, and sun,” he remarks, “which are factors that contribute to our unique product. We are vertically integrated from seed to cup, which gives us control of all aspects of making a great product.” In addition to its unique location in the Pacific, Kaua‘i Coffee relies on many other departments and people who are key to the company’s success. “From the team in the orchard, processing, roasting, packaging, quality assessment, warehousing, shipping, the Visitor center and e-commerce department, retail, logistics, administration, grounds, electricians, welders, machinists, maintenance, safety and compliance … the list goes on. There are a lot of moving parts, and the passion amongst the team makes us strive to make a great product.”
Reflecting on his extensive career with Kaua‘i Coffee, Shimatsu recalls that he feels incredibly fortunate for the opportunities the company has provided him to learn and grow. He is especially grateful for the support he received to attend conferences, workshops, and lectures around the world, which have been instrumental in his professional development. “I met a lot of great people along the way in Hawai'i and the specialty coffee industry who shared their knowledge and passion for coffee,” he says. In return, he is committed to sharing his knowledge and creating learning opportunities for others through his volunteer work as a station instructor at specialty coffee conferences, as well as by bringing his expertise home by leading cupping workshops for the Hawai‘i Coffee Association.
Amidst his hard work and success, family remains the anchor that keeps him grounded. With his son preparing to head off to college and pursue playing baseball as a pitcher, he cherishes their time together, often hitting the gym and taking his son to the park where he serves as his catcher. This marks a new chapter for the family, as he and his wife have been coaching his son since he was just four years old, and now they are transitioning to the next phase of his son’s journey. While he embraces these milestones, his dedication to Kaua‘i Coffee and the future of coffee in Hawai‘i is unwavering, more than just a job but a commitment to the artistry and science of coffee.
Kaua‘i Coffee; 870 Halewili Road, Kalāheo; (808) 545-8605; Open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.; kauaicoffee.com.