
At The Edge
Ka‘ena Point, O‘ahu’s Remote Sanctuary
BY Natalie Schack
You think you know O‘ahu — its freeways, neighborhood shortcuts, and wet and dry zones. You know the difference in sand texture between Ala Moana and Lanikai. You know that it is best to time your return from the North Shore to avoid crawling through traffic for hours. You have wandered its valleys and summits, tasted the humidity of Nu‘uanu’s rainforests, and baked under the dry sun of south shore trails. You know this island. Or at least, you think you do. And then you find yourself at Ka‘ena Point.
At the island’s westernmost tip, Ka‘ena Point feels disconnected from the pace and pattern of the rest of O‘ahu. There is no bustling highway, no streetlights, no rush. What there is: sun, wind, sea, and a stillness that feels almost cosmic. It has also been said that the point is known in Hawaiian tradition as leina a ka‘uhane (“the leaping place of souls”), where the spirits of the dead pass into the next realm. You do not need to understand the cultural history to sense it. The landscape speaks for itself.
Reaching Ka‘ena requires effort. The trail is only accessible on foot or by mountain bike, and there are two entry points: the Wai‘anae side and the Mokulē‘ia side. From Wai‘anae, drive west along Farrington Highway (Route 93) until the road ends past Keawa‘ula, also known as Yokohama Bay. From there, a rugged dirt path hugs the coast for two-and-a-half miles through Ka‘ena Point State Park. This route is dramatic — dry cliffs tower on one side while tidepools and bouldered beaches stretch out on the other. Along the way, you will pass blowholes, arching rock formations, and remnants of a road long overtaken by nature.
From Mokulē‘ia, take H-2 to Kaukonahua Road (Route 803), then west on Farrington Highway (Route 930) past Waialua and Camp Erdman. Park at the end of the road and continue on foot. This side is gentler, a flat and sunny trail across sand dunes and a softer coastline.
Either way, bring plenty of water, wear sun protection, and plan for a round-trip time of at least 1.5 to 3 hours. There is no shade, no drinking water, and little room for error just on the open coast and wild sea.
At the end of the trail lies the Ka‘ena Point Natural Area Reserve, a 59-acre protected space bordered by a predator-proof fence. Designed with a curved hood and fine mesh buried underground, the fence is a quiet engineering feat intended to keep out invasive animals, such as rats, mongooses, dogs, and cats. Inside, rare native species are reclaiming their space.
Among the windswept dunes and coastal vegetation, seabirds nest — wedge-tailed shearwaters in burrows and stately Laysan albatrosses on open ground. Frigatebirds and tropicbirds soar above. Native plants like ‘ilima, naupaka, and the endangered ʻohai and ʻakoko grow along the path. If you are lucky, you might spot a Hawaiian monk seal hauled out on the sand, barely lifting a whiskered face from its nap.
Perhaps the most striking feature of the point, though, is the sea itself. Here, the currents from O‘ahu’s north and west shores converge in a visible, turbulent seam. The ocean seems to surge from both directions, crashing into itself before pulling back, not forward, but sideways, then back again, undecided. The effect is mesmerizing. It feels like the island itself is exhaling. There is something symbolic in the contrast. That restless, otherworldly churn of water steps away from the calm, heavy stillness of a sleeping monk seal. Ka‘ena Point contains both intensity and peace, collision and retreat.
As stunning as it is, Ka‘ena is also fragile. Visitors are asked to stay on the marked trails, avoid disturbing nests, and refrain from bringing pets: no drones, no camping, no littering. Everything inside the reserve — the birds, the plants, the quiet — depends on our care.
So yes, you may have lived on or visited this island for years. You may know its moods and shortcuts. Alternatively, maybe it is your first visit. Either way, a walk to Ka‘ena Point is a reminder that O‘ahu still holds secrets — remote, sacred corners that defy familiarity. It is not just the end of the road. It is something else entirely.
Know Before You Go: Kaʻena Point
Trail Length: 2.5 miles (one way), from either Wai‘anae or Mokulē‘ia trailhead
Difficulty: Easy to moderate — mostly flat, but fully exposed to sun and wind
Time Required: 1.5 to 3 hours round trip, depending on pace
Parking: At the end of the paved road on either side (Keawa‘ula/Yokohama or Mokulē‘ia)
What to Bring: Sturdy shoes, sunscreen, hat, water, snacks, camera
Facilities: No restrooms, water, or services along the trail or at the point
Best Time to Go: Early morning to avoid the heat; winter months may offer the best chance for whale sightings.
Respect the Reserve: No pets, no drones, no camping or fires, and always stay on the trail
Look Out For:
Wildlife: Laysan albatross, wedge-tailed shearwaters, monk seals, frigatebirds
Native Plants: ʻIlima, naupaka, endangered ʻohai, and ʻakoko
Cultural Site: Be respectful.
Access Notes: The predator-proof fence has unlocked pedestrian entry gates at both ends. Be sure to close the gate behind you.
Visit dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/hiking/oahu/kaena-point-trail for more information.