Chef Donato Loperfido, born in Puglia, Italy, is affectionately known as the “ambassador of Italian food in Hawai‘i.” His steadfast passion for authentic Italian cuisine has made a lasting impact on Hawai‘i’s culinary scene, blending tradition with innovation. Since moving to the islands in 1985, Chef Donato has committed himself to sharing the true spirit of Italy with his new home. As the owner of Flavors of Italy, an import company, and Bocconcino, a restaurant and gourmet market specializing in handmade mozzarella, burrata, gourmet sandwiches, and Roman-style pizzas, he has created a refuge for Italian cuisine lovers. His impressive career, driven by passion and dedication, continues to connect cultures and bring a genuine taste of Italy to the islands. 

Q. What sparked your passion for food and cooking?
A. Growing up in Italy, I was passionate about learning how to cook from my grandmother. She was my idol, and she taught me everything I know about homestyle cooking through the delicious food she prepared. She has been my hero and the person who inspired me to enter the culinary industry. Growing up, I was always in charge of making the antipasti platters. 

Q. When did you start working in the culinary industry?
A. Before working in kitchens, I attended culinary school in Italy and even took some culinary classes in Germany. I moved to the United States at the age of 21 and started working in restaurants as a cook. I worked as a cook for two years and then became a chef, eventually running my first kitchen at the age of 23.

Q. What inspired you to make such a big move from Italy to Hawai‘i? 
A. I was a really big fan of Magnum, P.I.! That is why I came to Hawai‘i. However, when I settled in Hawai‘i, I became homesick because I couldn’t find good ingredients, including the staple of Italian pasta, spaghetti. I could not find good Parmigiano Reggiano. The only thing you could find at the time was what we call “Parmesan,” which is shaken from the green tubes. [There were] no tomatoes or olive oil to speak of, and it made my heart cry. I began to establish contacts in Italy and started importing items such as pasta, tomatoes, olive oil, and cheese. 

Q. Reflecting on your time in Hawai‘i’s restaurant scene, what milestones or memories stand out the most to you?
A. When I opened my first restaurant in 1999, I thought I was ahead of my time. I made food that people were not familiar with, and I got the same question all the time, “Is this an Italian restaurant?” People were not familiar with dishes like Tagliatelle Bolognese, Ragu Toscano, or Timpano. My restaurant was also called Carpaccieria because we specialized in carpaccio, not just the meat version, but also seafood. For that reason, I can say I brought crudoto Hawai‘i in 1996. 

Q. What inspired the concept behind your restaurant and gourmet market, Bocconcino?
A. After COVID-19, I saw an opportunity to create something that customers wanted—a place where they could grab and go, without having to spend money on tips or sit down to enjoy a great meal. COVID changed everything in the food industry, and I saw an opportunity to offer gourmet sandwiches and a Roman-style pizza called pinsa. The pinsa is made with three types of flour—soy, rice, and wheat—which makes the pinsa chewy and crunchy at the same time. I have been making mozzarella since the 1990s because when you import mozzarella to Hawai‘i, it can take 10 to 15 days for the mozzarella to arrive, and that is beyond its shelf life. You can get fresh mozzarella and burrata at Bocconcino. Bocconcino represents the top quality of Italian food. I am collaborating directly with the producers to create the olive oil we source from our olive orchards in Puglia and Sicily. I work with the farmers who grow tomatoes and care for the land. Quality is very important to us, and we cannot settle for okay or medium quality. We want excellence in every aspect of our products. 

Q. After so many years in the culinary industry, how do you continue to stay inspired?
A. I am motivated by the many concepts that I want to introduce to Hawai‘i, things that we have been doing in Italy for centuries, but have still not been discovered in this part of the world. For example, at our current location, I want to create an artisanal bakery and introduce Italian breads to Hawai‘i. In Italy, there are 20 regions, each known for its unique style of breadmaking. I want to highlight different breads from different regions in Hawai‘i. 

Q. What is your go-to comfort meal when you are not at work?
A. I love soups! I like to cook at home and create new things. But I am a very simple guy, so when I am not working, I love a hearty soup and a good plate of pasta. 

Q. What is one ingredient you could not live without? 
A. Olive oil—good, extra-virgin olive oil. I even drink olive oil because it is so good for you. And when I come home, and I am tired, all I want to eat is a slice of toasted bread soaked in good extra-virgin olive oil. 

Q. Do you have guidelines or tips on how to best enjoy mozzarella or burrata at home?
A. There are very simple rules for this. First, mozzarella and burrata should be eaten as fresh as possible. Second, after bringing your mozzarella or burrata home and storing it in the refrigerator, take it out for 30 minutes before eating. This allows the cheese to come to room temperature and soften. Finally, please, never put balsamic vinegar on mozzarella or burrata! All you need to do is sprinkle some salt and some extra-virgin olive oil. You want to taste and savor the freshness of the cheese. 

Chef Donato welcomes guests to Bocconcino, a taste of Italy in the heart of Kaka‘ako, where they can discover why so many people have fallen in love with his handcrafted flavors, warm hospitality, and the authentic Italian experience he passionately brings to life. 

Bocconcino; 978 Kawaiaha‘o Street, Honolulu; (808) 200-2830; Open Wednesday through Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.; bocconcinohi.com.

Flavors of Italy; flavorsofitalyhi.com