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Destination Kaimukī

One of Honolulu’s oldest neighborhoods, Kaimukī provides a perfect mix of residential charm and modern urban culture

BY Jasmine Chagnon

Situated between the neighborhoods of Diamond Head, Mānoa Valley and Kāhala, Kaimukī is a neighborhood on O‘ahu that boasts a unique small-town feel. A neighborhood steeped in tradition, Kaimukī was once a farm for King Kalākaua, the last king of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i, as well as the childhood home to one of Hawai‘i’s most notable musicians, the late Israel Kamakawiwo‘ole (aka Bruddah Iz). Its first road, Wai‘alae Avenue, was paved in 1925 and still serves as the main access road to the thriving business district, as well as the adjoining areas of Pālolo Valley and Wilhelmina Rise.

As many neighborhoods in Honolulu are experiencing complete renovations and overhauls, the heart of Kaimukī still lies in the various locally owned shops and businesses. Many establishments have been around for decades, such as the family owned and operated surf shop Downing Hawai‘i; City Mill, a home and hardware store; Calico Cat, a fabric boutique; and Bead It, an accessories store and jewelry workshop. Perhaps equally important as the neighborhood’s rich past is the excitement of its present and future.

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Thanks to the burgeoning food scene and abundance of mom-and-pop shops, Kaimukī has quickly become the go-to neighborhood to find some of O‘ahu’s top tastemakers, from chefs and restaurateurs. Hawai‘i’s own Ed Kenney and Top Chef fan-favorite Leanne Wong, to name a few—to boutique owners and designers. Kenney is at the helm of Mud Hen Water, which serves an inventive menu inspired by traditional Hawaiian dishes, while Wong stewards Koko Head Cafe, a beloved brunch spot that recently opened an outpost in Japan due to popular demand.

One of the latest restaurants to open is Kaimukī Shokudo—a sister spot to a beloved eatery in the Ala Moana area. The izakaya restaurant’s wraparound bar, moody lighting and trendy music are decidedly chic, yet casual and unstuffy—much like the neighborhood itself. The small plates are perfect for sharing, with seafood and vegetarian options most prominent.

Then there’s The Cutlery, a hybrid steakhouse and barbershop in one. Look past the odd pairing (it’s two separate areas, divided by glass doors, so it’s totally sanitary) and indulge in the simple yet elevated menu indoors or on the lānai. Fridays and Saturdays, there’s prime rib paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) style, charred over a kiawe fueled fire.

For matcha lovers, step inside the local boutique Ten Tomorrow to find modern resort wear and Daily Whisk Matcha, which is a charming cafe boasting a menu of classics like matcha lattes, of course, but you’ll also find unique tropical flavors that you’d be hard-pressed to find elsewhere, like the Matcha Lilikoi (passionfruit) Soda. There are also espresso options and Japanese-style pastries for those who aren’t yet fans of the potent green tea.

To go with your morning matcha, why not try a vegan doughnut from Little Vessels Donut Co.? The small batch, plant-based confections come in unique ever-rotating flavors meant to rekindle core memories from childhood. Think Peaches n’ Cream, featuring a peachy glaze with vanilla swirl, peaches, vegan vanilla buttercream and cake crumbs; and the KFC (Kaimuki Fried Chicken)—a play on chicken and waffles—features real maple syrup glaze is topped with vegan buttermilk chick’n wings and house-made vegan waffles.

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For lunch, step into Chubbies Burgers for a made-to-order burger made of perfectly seared premium Angus beef that’s been smashed on a traditional griddle. The locally sourced ingredients are then tucked inside a house-made potato bun. In fact, nearly everything—beverage syrups, pickles, onion rings, etc.—is made fresh in-house. The business that started out as a buzzy food truck in 2016 has been a welcome addition to the Kaimukī community. Oh, and though the menu is small and sticks to the classics, there’s even a vegetarian option.

Not to be confused with pau hana which is slang for happy hour, Pua Hana is a flower and gift shop (pua means “flower” in Hawaiian). The quaint 200-square-foot space is brimming with affordable lei—including intricate, beautifully designed ones featuring dried flowers, shells and beads that you can take back home! —and loose flowers for you to make your own bouquet. Plus, there’s a curated mix of locally made gifts including Pegge Hopper prints, vases, greeting cards and the like.

For gifts and home goods, step inside the oh-so-adorable Sugarcane boutique that reflects the small town charm of the neighborhood. The off-the-beaten path shop is worth venturing to for island-inspired items, including locally made accessories, keiki gifts, homewares and more.

Culture buffs may even want to check out the Kaimukī Public Library—which has been serving the community since 1915—for a quiet spot to get lost in tradition. Here, you can comb through the impressive collection of rare Hawaiian books and tranillegalscripts.

Kaimukī also has places to get back to nature—to invigorate mind, body and soul. You can hike Pālolo Valley’s Ka‘au Crater for a glimpse at the stunning waterfalls along Wai‘ōma‘o Stream or admire the view of the Honolulu skyline from Pu‘u O Kaimukī Park, for example.

The beauty of this dynamic community is that everything is at your fingertips. From fine dining to trendy gastropubs and unique gift shops, Kaimukī offers a lifestyle that is as culturally diverse as its residents. Though geographically speaking, Kaimukī is not very large—just under two square miles—its prime location, multitude of cultures and true sense of community make it a must-stop when exploring O‘ahu.

Mud Hen Water
3452 Waialae Ave., mudhenwater.com

Koko Head Cafe
1120 12th Ave. #100, kokoheadcafe.com

Kaimukī Shokudo
1127 11th Ave.

The Cutlery
3435 Wai‘alae Ave.,#103, thecutleryhnl.com

Ten Tomorrow and Daily Whisk Matcha
1114 11th Ave., tentomorrow.com, dailywhiskmatcha.com

Little Vessels Donut Co.
3458 Wai‘alae Ave., littlevesselsco.com

Chubbies Burgers
1145C 12th Ave., chubbiesburgers.com

Sugarcane
1137 11th Ave., #101

Pua Hana
3434 Wai‘alae Ave., #2, puahanahawaii.com

Kaimukī Public Library
1041 Koko Head Ave.,librarieshawaii.org/branch/kaimuki-public-library

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