Hawai‘i’s beaches are among the most beautiful in the world, attracting millions of visitors to their shores each year. While no one expects an emergency, the truth is that Hawaiian waters can be both unpredictable and dangerous. According to the Hawai‘i Department of Health’s Injury Prevention System Branch, there were 684 fatal drownings and 362 spinal injuries in Hawaiian waters between 2008 and 2017. The ocean’s beauty can be deceiving, which is why it is essential to be informed, stay prepared, and understand local conditions to enjoy the beach safely. 

Born and raised in Kaua‘i, Cheston Omo, an Ocean Safety Officer II and Rescue Craft Specialist, was introduced to the ocean and its power at an early age. “I learned to respect the ocean from a young age,” he says. “I was raised by generations of those who live by the rules of the sea and the land.” Omo learned to fish from his father and grandfather, whose family comes from Kaua‘i’s North Shore, including Hā‘ena and Wainiha. “They grew up fishing and farming kalo (taro). Being around the ocean was a way of life that allowed them to care for their family, as well as the land and sea.” He recalls his papa’s advice clearly: “Never take more than you need and never take for granted the power of the sea.”

Growing up near the ocean meant that Omo experienced both saving others and being saved himself. “Growing up, being at the beach all the time, you couldn’t help but pay attention to what is around you,” he says. “Even as kids playing at the beach, I had to save my sisters, cousins, or be saved myself by my dad, uncles, and grandpa.” This deep, lifelong connection to the ocean and firsthand understanding of both its beauty and danger naturally led Omo toward a career in ocean safety. Encouraged by his brother-in-law to apply, he became a lifeguard, and this father of two now marks his fifteenth year as a first responder of the sea.

“Lifeguards are out there on a regular basis. Lifeguards sit in the elements, watching the waves, looking after beachgoers, reading the winds, [and] tides, and are ready to risk everything,” he explains. “Our oceans can change in a matter of minutes, and… when I do a rescue, there are two things I’m thinking about: the person or persons I am about to save and making it home to my family.”

For Omo, one of the biggest challenges in keeping beachgoers safe is helping them understand what makes Hawai‘i’s ocean conditions different. “We are not like the mainland oceans or water areas. Calm water or surf can hide dangerous shore breaks or rip currents,” he explains. “They are powerful and can sweep even the strongest of swimmers out to sea.” 

Besides showing how Hawaiian waters differ from those in the continental U.S., there are several other local hazards visitors should be aware of. One primary concern is strong currents, which are fast-moving channels of water that are extremely difficult to swim against. Then, there are shore breaks, where waves crash directly onto shallow sand due to a sudden drop-off. While the area might look safe, the quick shift from deep to shallow water can cause serious injuries, especially to the head, neck, or spine. Environmental factors also play a role. Thunderstorms and lightning can make swimming dangerous, while changes in the moon can affect ocean conditions, bringing out dangers like jellyfish or Portuguese-man-of-war, adds Omo.

Omo points out that the seasons differ significantly from those in other parts of the world, and they have a major impact on ocean conditions. “Seasonal changes significantly affect the surf,” he explains. “On the North Shore, the biggest swells hit in the winter, from November to March, with waves reaching 20 feet or more. The South Shore sees larger swells in the summer months, between May and September. The East Shore is rough year-round due to constant trade winds, though it tends to get even choppier in the summer. As for the West Shore, it is often calmer, but unpredictable, with strong currents and wrap-around swells from the North Shore making it dangerous.”

 

When planning for a day at the beach, the first step is to know what to expect. This means being aware of your own swimming limits and understanding the specific hazards at the beach you are planning to visit. Once you have chosen a beach, it is always safer to go with a buddy who can help in case of an emergency. 

It is best to visit the beach during daylight hours when the sun provides maximum visibility. Not only does this make it easier to spot changing ocean conditions, but it is also safer, as wind often picks up later in the day, making the water rougher. Plus, early hours offer a better chance to see marine life, including fish and sea creatures, typically more active in the morning. 

While every beach carries some level of risk, Omo emphasizes that the safest beach to visit is one with lifeguards on duty. “Unguarded beaches are the most dangerous,” he warns. “They are posted all over social media and attract a lot of people, but the chances of you drowning, endangering someone else, or getting hurt are much higher.”

For families visiting the beach with keiki (children), Omo stresses the importance of constant supervision. “Always keep an eye on your children or designate a capable adult to watch your children,” he says. “Lifeguards are not babysitters. People often come to the tower to ask a lifeguard if they saw where their child was because they were tanning, sleeping, on the phone, or talking with friends.” With hundreds of beachgoers to watch over every day, lifeguards are trained to respond to emergencies, but safety begins with personal responsibility. It is essential to stay vigilant since “drowning is the leading cause of death for children and teens ages one to 15,” he says. 

Once you arrive at the beach, one of the first things you should do is check for any posted advisory signs. These signs alert the public to current hazards such as strong currents, high surf, or even shark sightings. When you are ready to enter the water, always go in feet first and never dive. It can be difficult to judge the depth or hidden obstacles beneath the surface just by looking. If you are visiting the beach with keiki, take a moment to point out the location of the nearest lifeguard tower so they know where to go if they need help. Be cautious when using floatation devices or beach toys like inner tubes, which can easily carry children into deeper water or flip over in the surf. 

In an emergency, Omo’s top advice is to stay calm. “Don’t panic, just go with the current,” he says. “Lie on your back and keep your head above water to conserve energy.” He recommends swimming parallel to the shore until you are out of the current, which gives you a better chance to make your way back to land safely. If you are in distress and see someone nearby, either on shore or in the water, wave your hands, yell for help, and try to hold onto anything that can help you stay afloat. 

When it comes to helping others in trouble, Omo urges caution. “Don’t put yourself at risk. [After calling] 911, keep an eye on the victim, if possible, so when help arrives, they know where to go,” he says. 

Despite the risks, a day at the beach can be safe and enjoyable when beachgoers take proper precautions and stay aware of their surroundings. For Omo, facing life-or-death situations is part of the job as a first responder, but staying calm in a crisis comes from years of training and preparation. Still, he emphasizes that safety is a shared responsibility. “When you choose to become a lifeguard, you are choosing to put other people’s lives before your own,” he says. “It affects their families when people do not take lifeguards or ocean warning signs seriously, putting themselves in trouble and putting the lives of first responders at risk.”

For more information on staying safe at the beach, visit safebeachday.com and oceansafety.hawaii.gov.