The Hot Spot - Mugen
Chef Colin Sato debuts a new dining concept at ESPACIO’s fine dining restaurant, Mugen.
BY IJfke Ridgley
Just up the staircase in the lobby of the exclusive ESPACIO The Jewel of Waikiki hotel sits Mugen, a global contemporary fine-dining restaurant. ESPACIO is made up of nine ultra-luxury private suites on nine floors in the heart of Waikīkī and is the only hotel in Hawai‘i to be awarded the prestigious Forbes five-star rating for both the hotel and its restaurant. ESPACIO’s ethos of privacy and offering the highest caliber of service is echoed in Mugen, whose intimate, 34-seat dining area provides the perfect ambiance to appreciate its indulgent culinary experience.
Originally a French Japanese restaurant, Mugen recently reopened with a brand-new dinner service and concept to match, thanks to Executive Chef Colin Sato. The rising star has brought his own touch to the menu, giving it an international flair that still maintains a sense of place, which he describes as “Hawai‘i global cuisine.”
The Honolulu native previously worked at The Moana Surfrider and counted famed restauranteur Chef Alan Wong—who served as a consultant on the menu—as a longtime mentor. His influence on the menu is a testament to its quality and innovation. “I draw on a lot of my past experiences to shape the way I run my kitchen. I was very fortunate to work with some amazing chefs, and they have molded me into the chef that I am today.”

Diners are treated to a unique dining experience at Mugen. As they pass through the chic, moody restaurant, they catch a glimpse of the chefs working in the open kitchen. Each course of the six-course, prix-fixe menu is served on hand-picked, unique Japanese plateware, each with its own story and charm, adding an element of intrigue to the dining experience. This season, the menu starts with a choice of ahi and Hamachi poke with caviar, pea and parmesan arancini or grilled he‘e (octopus) with nasturtium wasabi pesto. The most popular second course is the Kona Ezo abalone, a unique delicacy sourced from Kona Abalone, an aquaculture farm on Hawai‘i Island with whom the restaurant shares ownership, while a standout choice for the third course is the lobster risotto made with kombu, parmesan and maitake.
For entrées, guests have the choice between Washugyu ribeye served with taro croquette, Sumida watercress puree, and black garlic bordelaise; Cascade Creek lamb with an herb crust, spiced carrot puree, spring onion relish and rosemary lamb jus; or moromi miso-crusted Maui venison paired with cauliflower puree, creamed kale and shiitake finished with an ume port gastrique. Each of these options can be made even more decadent with the addition of foie gras, osetra caviar or A5 Wagyu.
The dinner service can be paired with wine tastings from Mugen’s extensive collection of rare wines curated by Captain Sommelier Douglas Priesel. If one prefers a cocktail, mixologist Ricardo Barajas designed a creative menu of beverages using local ingredients and top-shelf spirits. The dessert course is helmed by Pastry Chef Jamon Harper, who draws on his Caribbean upbringing to whip up island-inspired sweet treats like Meyer lemon meringue with olive oil cardamom sponge, fruit concassé, elderflower veil and blood orange pearls or the inventive “Mililani Garden,” a mix of potato crisps, chocolate soil and miso caramel.
Chef Harper’s influence extends to Mugen’s breakfast as well. Previously only offered to ESPACIO guests, the newly reimagined breakfast service is now open to the public and includes a selection of Chef Harper’s decadent pastries that can be paired with champagne mimosas made with freshly squeezed island juices. Memorable options on the fine-dining brunch menu include dishes like lemon-ricotta pancakes served with a tangy twist of mango-lilikoi curd and compressed pineapple, or the lobster eggs benedict served on a bacon gruyère biscuit, with black truffle hollandaise and microgreens. For an elevated take on a Hawaiian classic, you can’t go wrong with the Loco Moco made with Miyazaki A5 Wagyu, Tsuyahime rice, veal jus and a fresh Waialua quail egg.
The menus at Mugen will change seasonally, as the restaurant’s team is committed to fostering relationships with small, local growers and ensuring fresh, high-quality ingredients that originate from the islands. In the kitchen, a living garden was installed by Kupu Place, a local company that helps restaurants grow the highest quality aquaponic lettuce, microgreens and edible flowers to be used as garnishes. During brunch, morning treats made with cacao from local partner Manoa Chocolate are served alongside coffee specially roasted for Mugen by Tradition Coffee Roasters, a Kailua-based coffee company. As Chef Sato explains, “I see Mugen as being a destination restaurant that showcases the best that Hawai‘i has to offer.”